I need some painting tips

[Nexus6]

[clutch]

thanks. Ok, here is my stab at it, feel free to change it, add to it, etc...



I can't decide if the bolt is the same as the body and if the handle is the same as the body.

[Mr Hyde]

Awesome guide!!!

One comment: The bolt lever and the rear of the Steyr "slide" are the same part (see my photo on page 1), so I'm pretty sure they should both be the same darker blued steel.

What say you guys?

[clutch]

Not sure what you mean by slide. You mean the rear part of the gun that backs out when you lift the lever and pull it back? If you look at this image, the lever looks the same as the bolt to me, kind of shiny but may be the lighting.



I'm also wondering if the blueing should be very different between the steyr and the bulldog based on other pictures I've been looking at. The Steyr looks blue-er? Hehe. Also, the thumbscrew thingie on the side that faces forward looks like it's made out of brass and painted black.

[Mr Hyde]

I see what you mean: the lever and bolt appear lighter than the rear of the Styer top (what I call the "slide" since that's what it looks like). However, keep in mind that the milled portion of the bolt (concave surface) and lever (convex surface) are reflecting more light than the rest of the Styer "slide," so that might account for the lighter surfaces. To make my point, see where there's reflective glare on the gloss black painted parts - the surfaces adjoining the glare are lighter than the rest.

But if you want proof that the lever and "slide" parts have the same blued finish, all you have to do is Google images of a Steryr Mannlicher .222 rifle - the levers all match the receivers in color and finish:



I say it's the glare that gives the illusion the lever is brighter. The bolt was custom-machined for the prop, so I'd probably make it either stainless steel or aluminum.

[Nexus6]

Here's my take:


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[clutch]

Good point, I don't know what I was thinking.

Revision:

[Nexus6]

EDIT: I'm making stupid posts, hopefully due to lack of sleep.


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[Mr Hyde]

I think Nexus 6 has got it right, with 2 exceptions: The Weaver knob looks as dark, if not darker, than the Steyr receiver in nearly all of Karl's Worldcon photos, and I still say the bolt is not blued, and not even steel, but polished aluminum, for one simple and obvious reason, if not for the fact that it's the brightest metal on the gun besides the butt plate and the exposed lower rear & front ends of the grip frame:



Here's what I see on the Worldcon:

Steyr receiver & bolt lever, firing pin & front facade, Weaver knob - darker blued steel
Triggers, trigger guard, barrel, barrel post, Bulldog grip frame - lightly blued steel
Butt plate, outer grip frame, cylinder covers, bolt - polished aluminum (painted gloss black where indicated in photos)

I do believe we're close to a consensus!

[clutch]

Revised. Although I question the barrel post. Was it part of the Steyer or added later? It looks to be darker than the bulldog, so that's why I went with black, but here it doesn't look painted:



So I would say some variation of a darker blueing?

[clutch]

Flip side:

[BR12819]

so now that there is a general consensus on the color scheme. does anyone have any tips on what paint to use, or a particular bluing agent that seems to work best?

also. for those of us with full resin kits, what kind of paint should we use: semigloss, automotive, should we go with a chrome or silver for the grips and trigger guard? (doppleganger i'm looking at you if you see this)

what says the board?
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full tilt boogie baby

[Cottonball]

Bump!

It's been a year since the last post in this thread, and I'd very much like to see an answer to BR12819's last question.

I'm new to the board and am building-up an old RR PKD kit (though I'm thinking it's a recast). I'm pretty much done with the filling and sanding and am about ready to paint.

BTW, the kit was missing the trigger guard. Any suggestions how to fabricate a new one? I tried a length of brass but it was to hard to work with (heck, even bending it was a chore!).

Thanks!
Eric

[joberg]

Welcome Eric...we'll all wait for some pics of your built PKD . Hang in there, 'cause these things are a work of blood, sweat and tears...but worth their while

[Cottonball]

Bump again.

Thanks for the welcome!

So... No suggestions? Will my poor resin blaster have to remain bare-naked with all these exposed spot-filler blemishes?!

Eric

[Staar]

[joberg]

When it come to painting (acrylic/oil paint/automotive) I always use an airbrush; one you can adapt on a spray-can for the newbie, or a real double action one. Also, do your home-work on cans with extremely good spraying noozle (yes, they are available); it'll make a world of difference in the way your piece is finished.

[Cottonball]

Thanks for the helpful hints, guys!

Staar, what can I say? That's an awesome job you did on the restoration. And the pencil lead trick is something I gotta try. Btw, curiously my frame is kinda wonky too. Unfortunately the warp is thru the bulk of the frame and there's not much I can do to correct it. It's minor, though, and only noticeable upon close inspection.

With any luck, I should be ready to begin painting this weekend.

Eric