MY BLASTER BUILD , PROGRESS

[marsattack]

Rich checked out these new pics, my orange grips are not of the same with as each other, also , they seem to be a lot wider than this:
are the kit grips different to your deluxe grips???
if they are maybe the butt plate should be bigger on the kits???

[img][/img]

[racprops]

Rich , with all due respect, i am building the model you created , and reading your comments , BETTER THAN YOU !lol

Yes I build to a set point, like the Ford, not to a set point like a Royal Royce, a production model not a custom model, so yes it can be improved.

Have you added up the hours you have spent??



my cylinder spins beautifully with all the bullets in place and in the locked position.
I have put together your kit by using all my skills, patience and hard work.
I have not commented YET on the kit as i have not finished it.
I have studied your photobucket closely , have pmd you about little things and have suggested a few ideas that will not only help the future builder but you also in making a better model and/or clearer instructions.

I have not once compared it to a different kit , my only interst at the moment is to finish this kit and make my thread an asset to the next builder, and to naturally cover most questions they will soon be pming you about.

I am up to the handgrip and grip build.
I would like however an idea or solution into fixing these grips PRIOR to me working on the handgrip.
I am prepared to fix the handguard to suit perfectly to these grips , casted in pewter and offer it for free to those in need. I can then send the mold to you or Johnny prop to cut down on building time for yourselves.

Here is where I cannot lock this down. RTV Molds move: They swell or shrink in making, in molding, if they are cold or hot.

The parts are pulled while still warm and can warp. Metal is heavy and can distort the mold due to its hydraulic pressure.

Removing the outer grip frame bends the frame a little, which needs to be bent back.

IN a perfect world this would not happen, but it does.

I can make 20 frames and 20 grips and they will be slightly different from each another.

AND Cast metal changes differently than does the cast plastic so parts that fit perfect and molded right off them will not fit when cast.


So , i need to know how you reduce the thickness of the grips to suit, i have supplied photos ???

Belt sand?

Are there 2 different grips you make? It is possible some when out with different grips…I keep trying to get them tighter.

Please will try and capture spinning cylinder on pics Not understanding what you asking here.

Rich
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I never have enough time to do all I want to do!

[racprops]

Mars, the picture is of finished models, models where I have sanded the grips to fit.

Yes my grips are fatter than needed, again because of how things change molding and casting, and how plastic can warp in the molds and how hard it is to fill a open face mold to the just right line...they tend to be convexed, sand flat and it is too small...

So I make them large and sand then down to fit and then often sand the grip frame and grips to blend or match one another.

There is a lot of work in these models.

Rich

PS That is one made of Plastic...and painted.
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I never have enough time to do all I want to do!

[marsattack]

Have you added up the hours you have spent??
too many , totally understand how your blasters come to $$$


Here is where I cannot lock this down. RTV Molds move: They swell or shrink in making, in molding, if they are cold or hot.

The parts are pulled while still warm and can warp. Metal is heavy and can distort the mold due to its hydraulic pressure.

Removing the outer grip frame bends the frame a little, which needs to be bent back.

IN a perfect world this would not happen, but it does.

I can make 20 frames and 20 grips and they will be slightly different from each another.

AND Cast metal changes differently than does the cast plastic so parts that fit perfect and molded right off them will not fit when cast.


all the above mate is fine and totally understand but does not fix my problem

Belt sand?
no way in hell!!!
sanding the BACKS of the grips would cause the SEE THROUGH effect to dissapear as the belt sander would scratch them totally.
Sanding the sides to make them anywhere near the same would not only scratch the back but also the sides!!

Please will try and capture spinning cylinder on pics Not understanding what you asking here.
this was for me to show you , not vice versa.
I got mine spinning with the bullets

[racprops]

[marsattack]

Rich that is a really nice blaster , i only ask for a similar finish , not more, and not expect it to fire
but i do not understand how on the below pic you sanded the back of the grip when it is totally see through , and this is the side i have a problem with .
and on the above pic the 2 grips you used are very close if not the same size??
I cant sand the outer side of the grip
mars
[img][/img]

[marsattack]

ok , so by using finer grades of sandpaoer , you sure i wont damage them??
and will turn out glossy?
just asking as i am unsure of the resin compound you used, would never dream of using sandpaper without asking first.
but if this is what you do , then problem solved mate!
i am pretty sure i can bring them down in size..
Yes hell of a job!!
so how much do these blasters go for???
mars

[racprops]

Now I can understand why you having a problem.

Check out the new pictures I just uploaded to photobucket.

I have a bunch of belt sanders and found a company to make special belts, like 200/320/400 even higher but I don't use them I found 400 the top grit.

With a few sanders I can start on one with 120 then go to the 320 and finsh on one with 400.

Then a little hand sanding then scotch brite and the polish.

Rich

PS I will use a belt per model...
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I never have enough time to do all I want to do!

[Staar]

Rich mate. You know that I'm on record (and I've said to you personally) that your contribution to this merry band of people has been invaluable but looking at this thread and reading the comments here how can anyone see this as anything but a total mess??

I know the kit was made as a 'special' for Propsummit and I also know that you specifically stressed repeatedly that this was a KIT, but in fairness mate, however its termed and whatever the packaging members spent a great deal of money on these kits and how are they going to realise this dream - if what lies before them is this type of shamble??

As I've said before, Mars is a builder of the highest credentials and experience and he's done a terrific job resurrecting this blaster but the more this thread grows the more we can see that his kit will never, ever match the kind of prop you have posted at the top of this page..

I see on Mars' kit a receiver that's warped, pieces that have had to be totally remanufactured and this latest grip-frame and amber grip cockup that's going to require a miracle to rectify..

Please tell us that Mars has been especially unlucky and that the other members who purchased this kit will not be saddled with problems like these because if they are, then I suspect that this could make a lot of people, really angry.

I look forward to your response

Regards

MARK
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[racprops]

I just uploaded a bunch of pictures of built models on Photo Bucket and some of them Mars has posted.

These are built propsummit kits!!

I used the same parts I shipped!!

I have been replacing some parts for people that have messed up or felt they got a poor casting.

If someone has reasonable ideas what they are building it will come out great, and like the ones I build every week.

Some are taking things farther with spinning cylinders (Good for them...)and some are wanting parts BY THEMSELVES to be perfect. Can't be done.

I own a 2000 Ford Mercury GM. IF I applied the same standards your using on my model: it is a piece of junk, the doors and trunk do not line up perfectly, there are sharp edges on most of the engine parts, and they left out features I want like: like a Tach….It has no light to tell me it is in cruse control and so on and so on.

But it still runs great, has tons of power and gives 30 MPG highway.

Rich
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I never have enough time to do all I want to do!

[jameth]

The 135 on the glitch thing was a bad joke. Did not meen it literally.

I think Rich is not being treated fairly. Looking back, yes some things could be changed and clarified but looking back is always easy to see mistakes. Taking on a project like this is a massive undertaking and there are going to be big problems. Rich told everyone what was needed to do this. He also offered Deluxe kits and full complete builds. If someone bought this after reading everything needed and thought they were going to just throw a raw kit together I can only say they were warned. Look at my Vader Reveal posted earlier. I built that from an $80 Rubies helmet. I think I can say I have some skill. I took one look at the raw kit and said hell no!!! I'll pay the extra to get a deluxe. I also advised several members who asked me if they should get the kit and I said not based on their skill level. Spend the extra on a deluxe or skip it. Some listened and some may end up with a pile of junk.

Rich has been great in emails, posts, help, replacing parts, etc. I really don't think we can ask more of him. Is it perfect, no. Can we see some improvements in the description of what is being offered, sure. But I don't think it's fair to go after Rich so much.

Bottom line is one of his old ones is going for over $900 as we speak. If anyone wants to they can easily sell their kit or deluxe and get all their money back easily. I have seen many members already asking to be in the next run.

I have looked at everything made on this blaster and compared it to every blaster out their including the last Sidkit. It is without question the best. At first I looked at some Sidkit pics and thought they were better casts. Then I looked at them real close. You have to really look but there are the same flaws and imperfections. Plus it's soft metal and not as accurate.

I understand the frustration. I spent $800 on a replica gun and could have bought a real nice real gun for that and no it's not perfect. Rich is not perfect and some improvement is needed but give the guy a break. He told everyone what they were getting, he is helping at all hours of the day and has put up with a bit of abuse he does not deserve.

Give him a break. It's a prop not World Peace.

just my 1/2 cent worth

[Staar]

[racprops]

And again I outlined what was needed: a belt sander is a good idea, and a drill press, and a buffer, which can be done with a drill press, I do it all the time.

Lots of sanding, elbow grease.

Advance model making skills.

I really do not think my kit is much harder than the Sidkit was.

Especially the deluxe version which is shipped assembled like the ones in the pictures.

My older models need a lot more labor to build.

Rich
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I never have enough time to do all I want to do!

[racprops]

“I understand the frustration. I spent $800 on a replica gun and could have bought a real nice real gun for that and no it's not perfect. Rich is not perfect and some improvement is needed but give the guy a break. He told everyone what they were getting, he is helping at all hours of the day and has put up with a bit of abuse he does not deserve.”

I understand this so well, I got into propmaking as I could NOT afford to buy the props that were on the market then, so I had to make them.

And even now it is hard for me to buy a prop, there are bills to pay and other thing we need.

So if I cannot make a prop I want or trade a prop for a prop, I don’t get it.

As for prices:

I am 62 years old, I remember: $.25 cents a gallon gas, buying a Ruger 22 pistol for $50.00 in a Kmart, (And finding fault with it and reselling it) pricing a fully loaded ’71 Camaro with every option I wanted for around $7000.00 total price, VW Bugs going for $2000.00, buying a 64 Chevy out of a guys back yard for $25.00, and so on and so on.

Things cost more now, a lot more.

I have never owned a brand new car, the lost of ¼ the value as I drive off the dealers lot freaks me out, plus the possibility I might have just bought a Lemon…better to get a used car a few years down the road after all the problems have become known.

We all make chooses as to what we want.

I have always known my models are a luxury, and thus not really needed. (Like food and gas and homes…)

In these tight times this fact cause a lost of sleep some nights.

Rich
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I never have enough time to do all I want to do!

[eltee]

(From Richard) "And again I outlined what was needed: a belt sander is a good idea, and a drill press, and a buffer, which can be done with a drill press, I do it all the time.

Lots of sanding, elbow grease.

Advance model making skills..." .

Yes, that is why I chose not to attempt to build one. I knew this was not going to be like building a plastic model of an airplane and I did not have a belt sander. When a pro says, "advance model making skills" I take it as a warning. Caveat Emptor.

[propsjonnyb]

Ok , There seem's to have been a lot going on since I went into my workshop yesterday after checking the forum tonight - lots of questions , Mars you'll find it easier with the issue with the handle , if firstly you sand the amber grips flat , trust me you can restore the polished finish inside and I'll tell you how shortly. Once they are flat, mount them on the outer frame , this will show you how much is needed to sand on either the grip or the outer frame handle or both . I use a 'linisher' which is like a vertical belt sander with a flexible belt , you don't need a special machine, to do this as you can do it by hand, it just takes a little longer ( and you can get a better finish by hand!!) get some long sheets of coarse, medium , fine and extra fine grit sand paper say from 350 , 450 , 550 to 600 , belt sander replacement belts are ideal - cut then in half making a great big long strip , now cut each into a strip about an inch to an inch and a half wide making a long thin strip - now mount your handle in a vice in front of you, so that your looking at the back of the handle take your strip and wind it arround your hands so that you have a loop - grit side to the handle and now using a left and right rocking motion rub the sand paper against the handle whilst keeping the pressure steady , so that you sand the back and sides at the same time , do this working up from course , through medium and eventually extra fine and you will have a perfectly rounded handle with matching grips , turn the handle round in the vice and repeat, until you're satisfied with the finish, once you've finished sanding with the fine extra fine grit, take the grips off the outer handle and lightly sand them, with medium fine and exta fine , until they are perfectly smooth and flat on the inside , now comes the secret of making them clear again , use some 'Autosol' or 'Auto glym' or any branded 'hi spec' car body polish and rub that into the grips - polish with a soft cotton cloth and you should have your grips back to normal again - handle sorted !

[propsjonnyb]

I am activly encouraging several other forum members to build their blasters , by showing them what they need to do, some of the difficult bits do need explanation and demonstration on how then need to be done properly , so you can reproduce something close to Rich's final deluxe painted and finished model - I'm not starting at the deluxe kit - which I think most members here, could put together with a set of allen keys and a screwdriver and do a reasonable job, - I'm starting at the RAW kit stage - how to prep and fit each part etc etc from the ground up to finished model. Yes - even Rich's working deluxe kit can be improved upon ! and I'm sure many will produce exceptional models - but it really is wrong to expect every single piece to be perfect , it will never be so , but hard work can make each work together to make the whole model as good as it can possibly be - we all know buying a raw cast kit presents difficulties and some it will be beyond , I not saying they are incapable of doing it , it is all a matter of degree and experience,
I have been building kits and modelling for well over 30 years , I wouldn't expect an 18 year old or whatever age you all are, to have the same skills that I have straight off , but anyone can learn , just ask , I like many others here are willing to share and teach you all you need to know to do it yourself!! - just ASK !!

[racprops]

Once more onto the Soap Box.

Lastly there is a big difference between a Real Gun sold for say $800.00 manufactured in the thousands or even hundreds of thousands and a limited mostly handmade model.

I too am very willing to answer questions and share all my working knowledge on building these models.

And I am very interested in how they turn out.


Rich
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I never have enough time to do all I want to do!

[jameth]

EDIT:

Jameth mate, its got nothing to do with questioning Rich's ability to build gorgeous pieces (again I've said on MANY occasions we owe him and others like him - SID included - a debt of gratitude) but it has everything to do with providing a good workable kit for the money anyone has spent.

Lets not get into the debate on Sid vs RAC because that is not the issue here….

Regards

MARK[/quote]

The whole Sidkit Vs. RAC don't bring it up thing is nonsense. As a new member I am really not up on everything that happened in the past and it's really not relevant. I asked about how one prop compares to another. That is a perfectly reasonable question for a prop discussion board. Key word being discussion. Even though I did not want to I did try going through old posts and all I got was drama.

I will ask any question I see fit to. If you don't like it don't answer. But I spend all day helping kids knowone else cares about. I put up with a lot and when I come home If I want information about a prop I will ask and knowone is going to tell me not to. Well they might but I'm not going to listen.

Rich does not have any problem discussing the actual differences in these two gun props with me and I don't need or want to know anything about the other stuff. Several Sidkit owners have also discussed it with me.

If anyone has a problem discussing it, tuff. This is a discussion board. I compared the two guns and offered my opinion on the result. This is relevant since we are discussing the quality of these kits and so far I am the only person talking who has a deluxe in their hand. My opinion might be relevant.

Okay back on topic. Sorry for the detour.

[jameth]

I have painted my black parts and they came out great. I will post pics asap.