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Pewter Repair

 
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megagreg
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Joined: 06 Aug 2009
Posts: 44
Location: Oakland, CA

PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 1:54 am    Post subject: Pewter Repair Reply with quote

Hi all,

So I'm in the middle of my first SidKit build, and I've ran into a snag. Seems that the pewter was very thin near the back wall of the bulldog frame (where the cylinder would pop out). And while polishing this piece, I polished right through metal leaving a hole (see image).



To compound things, the spring loaded ejector pin/pivot (see image) now gets stuck in that hole every time I eject the cylinder. So I can't completely eject the cylinder without a lot a wiggling and wrestling the blaster.



Anybody have a repair technique for filling that hole?

Thanks much!
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REdYOdA
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Joined: 27 May 2010
Posts: 41
Location: San Francisco

PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 3:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would recommend filling the damage with http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php
JB-weld is safe for use and bonds to softer metals. It's pretty easy to sand/paint after curing.

Your finish is looking great btw...hope to see some finished pics!
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propsjonnyb
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Joined: 16 Jul 2009
Posts: 476
Location: Helmdon, Northamptonshire UK

PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 4:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could repair the hole with a good lead free solder , simply 'blob' solder quickly into and around the hole , don't leave the soldering iron tip against the surface of the pewter gun for too long or you'll cause more damage than trying to fix the repair , you should end up with a raised 'pimple' of solder on the surface , file or grind it down with a dremmel again not too much grinding - finish with filing and sanding it smooth .
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megagreg
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Joined: 06 Aug 2009
Posts: 44
Location: Oakland, CA

PostPosted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys!

Some JBWeld is sitting right in front of me as I type this—so I'll probably try that method first. And I'll post some photos when the build is done.

All the best
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megagreg
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Joined: 06 Aug 2009
Posts: 44
Location: Oakland, CA

PostPosted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JB Weld worked great - thanks again! (solder might have been even nicer (a actual metal finish) but I was too chicken to try that method).

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Staar
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Joined: 04 Feb 2008
Posts: 753
Location: AUSTRALIA

PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 12:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great repair job there mate…!!

Looking forward to seeing the rest of the build completed.

Regards

MARK
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propsjonnyb
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Joined: 16 Jul 2009
Posts: 476
Location: Helmdon, Northamptonshire UK

PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 6:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree looking good, whatever works best - since I'm electroplating mine , I'd have used solder rather than epoxy , since , I need a material that's conductive - looking forward to seeing teh finished article
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joberg
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Joined: 06 Oct 2008
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 6:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very good repair MegaGreg! Looking forward to more pics of your build.
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megagreg
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Joined: 06 Aug 2009
Posts: 44
Location: Oakland, CA

PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all !

Still working on it, but here's a sneak peak.



Still to do:
    - electronics
    - weathering & detail
    - fix upper receiver and barrel alignment

Need More Help: What kind of battery is used in the SidKit? Mine came "batteries not included"

See here:
http://www.heycomputer.com/instruction/blaster9.htm

Thanks again !
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propsjonnyb
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Joined: 16 Jul 2009
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Location: Helmdon, Northamptonshire UK

PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 4:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can use a 9v flat battery, which I am told Sidero always used, my Sidkit has a 9V inside, or as Rich does a 3v camera one ,the only thing to make sure about is the wiring for the LED's and the switch , and protect the circuit with a small resistor , if you don't know the specs on the LED's as an unprotected circuit and unknown LED's could cause them to overheat and burnout.
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joberg
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 6:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lookin' good...keep up the good work
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megagreg
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Joined: 06 Aug 2009
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Location: Oakland, CA

PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 1:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks propsjonnyb

From the online instructions: ( http://www.heycomputer.com/instruction/blaster9.htm ) it looks like a 3v camera battery is being used. There was no resistor in the bag of electronics that came with the kit, so I'm thinking I don't need one for a 3v configuration (as opposed to 9v)? ?
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propsjonnyb
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Joined: 16 Jul 2009
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 4:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It depends on the specs of the LED's , if you don't know them assume 300 ma and add a small resistor, just to protect them from burnout , if you wire up the LED's incorrectly the circuit could get pretty warm and blow an LED damm shame if you've fixed it in place , most LED's will happilly work forever on 1.5v so try to keep it around that limit, the photos show them linked in series , I'd add a 10ohm or12 ohm resistor just to be on the safe side.
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megagreg
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Location: Oakland, CA

PostPosted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great advice! Thanks much propsjonnyb. Off to the electronic store…

MG
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