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hirohawa Community Member
Joined: 18 May 2006 Posts: 1067
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Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 8:16 am Post subject: |
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Nice catch Rich.
Where is that poster from? Is that going to be a real 24x36?
Totally want one. |
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stonedog7563 Community Member
Joined: 19 Apr 2007 Posts: 66 Location: Norfolk UK
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Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 8:54 am Post subject: |
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racprops wrote: | I find the small things very interesting…it's my JOB…
I just spotted another small detail that they got wrong…The pin does not float above the barrel it rested right on it.
Rich
PS My model this is correct...it IS my JOB... |
Should have kept that one to yourself Rich, I see yet another limited ultra super accurate version in the wings |
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stonedog7563 Community Member
Joined: 19 Apr 2007 Posts: 66 Location: Norfolk UK
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Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 8:55 am Post subject: |
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hirohawa wrote: | Nice catch Rich.
Where is that poster from? Is that going to be a real 24x36?
Totally want one. |
That's the cover of the steelbook edition of the film. |
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Buch Community Member
Joined: 27 Feb 2014 Posts: 1184 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 9:20 am Post subject: |
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Hmm, think I'll try the bluing after all... I'm not too keen on the idea of painting the metal parts.... Still figuring out which method to use...
So far I think I've read about two different approches....
1) Either sanding the parts, then soaking them in undiluted bluing fluid. Then polish with scotchbrite cloths. Finally some kind of coat....
2) Or sanding, then soaking in different and increasingly more concentrated dilutions of bluing fluids. Three different all together, I think. Then polishing and a finishing coat....
Are there any pros and cons on these two methods?
stonedog7563 wrote: | I used it on the last kit (pro) the holes are tiny and not very deep, I sanded them out back to smooth metal and they have all gone, was just a bit scarey. yes I used Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black.
I've been sanding this thing so much now it looks more like a Deringer |
_________________ Monsieur, azonnal kövessen engem bitte |
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racprops Community Member
Joined: 30 Oct 2006 Posts: 2450 Location: Phoenix AZ
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Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 9:39 am Post subject: |
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No need: my model has been correct there forever....
I saw that detail in the first stunt prop I got back in the 80s...even when I was sticking a red LED in as a Laser pointer, I put it on tip of the barrel.
Rich
stonedog7563 wrote: | racprops wrote: | I find the small things very interesting…it's my JOB…
I just spotted another small detail that they got wrong…The pin does not float above the barrel it rested right on it.
Rich
PS My model this is correct...it IS my JOB... |
Should have kept that one to yourself Rich, I see yet another limited ultra super accurate version in the wings |
_________________ I never have enough time to do all I want to do! |
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racprops Community Member
Joined: 30 Oct 2006 Posts: 2450 Location: Phoenix AZ
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Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:02 am Post subject: |
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I updated my first post on this... _________________ I never have enough time to do all I want to do! |
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racprops Community Member
Joined: 30 Oct 2006 Posts: 2450 Location: Phoenix AZ
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Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 11:31 am Post subject: |
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racprops wrote: | I find the small things very interesting…it's my JOB…
I just spotted another small detail that they got wrong…The pin does not float above the barrel it rested right on it.
And the center spike is too long and the detail around the hole the pin comes out is also incorrect...
How they did that wrong with one (or two) of my models on hand and with the same photos we all had I cannot figure...At lease these are not caused my manufacture needs like the moved grip frame pin used to hold the grip frame AND the rear of the trigger guard was done. (also incorrect...)
And yes I Am Nick picking Ahole...
Rich
PS My model this is correct...it IS my JOB... |
_________________ I never have enough time to do all I want to do! |
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spinner 44 Community Member
Joined: 06 Nov 2006 Posts: 202 Location: Madrid, Spain
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Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 12:28 pm Post subject: |
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racprops wrote: | I find the small things very interesting…it's my JOB…
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The chamfer in the front part of the receiver in the Tome is too small compared to the real one, the flat lip is too thick, the custom piece in front is not very correct in profile, just approximate: outher lip should be thicker, plus the rest of angles and proportions are more or less correct... I would have preferred them to be perfect |
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VFX Freak Community Member
Joined: 31 Mar 2013 Posts: 18 Location: Los Angeles
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Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 4:08 pm Post subject: |
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spinner 44 wrote: | Best finish EVER. IMO, that's it of course.
Not only elegant, clean, but also movie accurate, as it was just released for the factory.
You just made my favourite blaster and will serve as inspitation, thank you
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Thanks for the very kind words, Spinner 44! Made my day.
My new Tomenosuke PRO arrived yesterday and now I'm going to start all over again. I must be nuts! _________________ "I shoot better when I move." - The Sundance Kid |
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VFX Freak Community Member
Joined: 31 Mar 2013 Posts: 18 Location: Los Angeles
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Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 6:47 pm Post subject: |
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Buch wrote: | Hmm, think I'll try the bluing after all... I'm not too keen on the idea of painting the metal parts.... Still figuring out which method to use...
So far I think I've read about two different approches....
1) Either sanding the parts, then soaking them in undiluted bluing fluid. Then polish with scotchbrite cloths. Finally some kind of coat....
2) Or sanding, then soaking in different and increasingly more concentrated dilutions of bluing fluids. Three different all together, I think. Then polishing and a finishing coat....
Are there any pros and cons on these two methods? |
If it makes any difference to your decision making process, Nobu (the man behind the beautifully finished Tomenosuke blasters) uses the bluing method that starts with a very diluted bath of the bluing chemical.
That's how I did mine and it worked. I found that jumping right in with the full strength stuff resulted in an inferior finish; rough, uneven, and very hard to control.
My two cents... _________________ "I shoot better when I move." - The Sundance Kid |
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Buch Community Member
Joined: 27 Feb 2014 Posts: 1184 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 3:01 am Post subject: |
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Thanks! It helps a lot It's difficult to decide when I have absolutely zero experience with bluing! But it makes sence that you slowly build up the colour you want.... Think this will be my method of choice. I already got your excellent guide. I can only hope for a result half as good as yours, you really did a super job on that one
VFX Freak wrote: | Buch wrote: | Hmm, think I'll try the bluing after all... I'm not too keen on the idea of painting the metal parts.... Still figuring out which method to use...
So far I think I've read about two different approches....
1) Either sanding the parts, then soaking them in undiluted bluing fluid. Then polish with scotchbrite cloths. Finally some kind of coat....
2) Or sanding, then soaking in different and increasingly more concentrated dilutions of bluing fluids. Three different all together, I think. Then polishing and a finishing coat....
Are there any pros and cons on these two methods? |
If it makes any difference to your decision making process, Nobu (the man behind the beautifully finished Tomenosuke blasters) uses the bluing method that starts with a very diluted bath of the bluing chemical.
That's how I did mine and it worked. I found that jumping right in with the full strength stuff resulted in an inferior finish; rough, uneven, and very hard to control.
My two cents... |
_________________ Monsieur, azonnal kövessen engem bitte |
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racprops Community Member
Joined: 30 Oct 2006 Posts: 2450 Location: Phoenix AZ
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Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 6:56 am Post subject: |
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Note you will be working with a chemical.
Good nitrate gloves, safety glasses and a face mask good ideas.
Open air and a table that you don't care about in case of spills..
Be careful.
Rich _________________ I never have enough time to do all I want to do! |
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Buch Community Member
Joined: 27 Feb 2014 Posts: 1184 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 7:13 am Post subject: |
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Good points, Rich, and thanks for your advice It's much appreciated. Will be careful.
racprops wrote: | Note you will be working with a chemical.
Good nitrate gloves, safety glasses and a face mask good ideas.
Open air and a table that you don't care about in case of spills..
Be careful.
Rich |
_________________ Monsieur, azonnal kövessen engem bitte |
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VFX Freak Community Member
Joined: 31 Mar 2013 Posts: 18 Location: Los Angeles
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Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 4:18 pm Post subject: |
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Rich does bring up very good points. I confess I probably spilled as much Perma Blue as I used on the gun. I got tired of buying (and knocking over!) the little bottles, so I just bought the big 32 ounce bottle.
I worked outside, (easier in Southern California in the colder months) and went through dozens of pairs of nitrile gloves. Buy extra supplies of everything! _________________ "I shoot better when I move." - The Sundance Kid |
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Zombie Soldier
Joined: 01 Oct 2014 Posts: 1 Location: West Sussex England
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Posted: Sat Oct 18, 2014 5:43 pm Post subject: |
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Does anybody know about issues with the triggers in the new kit?
I only ask because my friend in Japan is now sending another package with trigger parts. |
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Buch Community Member
Joined: 27 Feb 2014 Posts: 1184 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 5:04 am Post subject: |
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Is that an official send out from Tomenosuke??
Zombie Soldier wrote: | Does anybody know about issues with the triggers in the new kit?
I only ask because my friend in Japan is now sending another package with trigger parts. |
_________________ Monsieur, azonnal kövessen engem bitte |
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Pierre990429 Community Member
Joined: 06 Dec 2012 Posts: 194 Location: France
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Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 6:27 am Post subject: |
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How do your trigger parts look like ?
Here are some shots of mine (with other parts, especially the little springs, screws, "rods" - I pulled the content of some plastic bags out) :
It seems Ok to me, when I compare to the assembly instructions. (still haven't started) |
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stonedog7563 Community Member
Joined: 19 Apr 2007 Posts: 66 Location: Norfolk UK
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Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2014 3:00 pm Post subject: |
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Been working on my Tomenosuke pro (the previous model) for far too long now as been having major issues with the bluing (like lots of people)
I knew the look I wanted before starting and did not want how it came out to dictate the look I ended up with, I tried most of the suggested methods but none seemed to work for me until I tried the method in the link below :-
http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=1202
and it seems to have worked for me in getting the look I was after
Quick phone pic, more to follow
John |
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joberg Community Member
Joined: 06 Oct 2008 Posts: 9447
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Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2014 7:53 pm Post subject: |
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Oohh!! Beauty John, beauty |
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Buch Community Member
Joined: 27 Feb 2014 Posts: 1184 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 3:53 am Post subject: |
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That is looking really pro Is it a steel barrel or did you polish up the plastic one? _________________ Monsieur, azonnal kövessen engem bitte |
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