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DARKVIEW
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Joined: 06 Aug 2015
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Location: UK

PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 3:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well lm fairly happy with it up to now...it's quite sturdy & I've had little to no probs with the pewter & bluing up to now.. The metal has been quite forgiving. Wouldn't want to toss the gun about but who would!!!

I'm waiting till its fully complete before more accurate weathering to the 'Hero Prop'.




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racprops
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Joined: 30 Oct 2006
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Location: Phoenix AZ

PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 3:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are OK...I really wish I could get them done in China as the pro was.

BUT I have found that the pro IS a touch off size, and I can only say my parts are off the real thing and that I have not offered my metal Bulldog parts as replacement as I see they may not fit and are not good replacement to their plastic parts.

I was saying to get a really great fitting Bulldog with real working action use a real Bulldog.

Of course only where doing so is legal.

Rich
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DARKVIEW
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry crude ipad pen sample....Got the cylinder & thumbpiece to work properly.... Moved the thumbpiece in 1.5mm (tighten screw, inner to the thumbpiece bolt) then the central cyclinder barrel clicks out/in enough even with full load bullets....right! What's next... Wink


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Last edited by DARKVIEW on Wed Sep 09, 2015 2:42 am; edited 1 time in total
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joberg
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking very good so far
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DARKVIEW
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2015 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers, the Amber grips are perfect I'm finding on this model...
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DARKVIEW
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2015 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the various kits l use for the bluing, polishing & acetone cleaning... all very good and effective too!!! The Birchwood kit has great wet/dry sandpaper daubers,brushes and cloths.... & fine wire wool included.

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DARKVIEW
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 6:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm starting the lights, had to scrape away more space for the on/off switch to fit thro, it now just has enough space to switch it on & off!!. And l mean JUST!!

I've added 5-10mm washers to the main center red light space so when the big LED IS placed its correct height on its viewing side when on!


If anyone knows or has a step build of the lights on the SidKit ld love to see it, I've see Richards but its this kits I'm interested in viewing.
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Bwood
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Joined: 20 Sep 2009
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will these do?

http://propsummit.com/upload/696/b59.gif
http://propsummit.com/upload/696/b60.jpg
http://propsummit.com/upload/696/b61.jpg
http://propsummit.com/upload/696/b62.jpg
http://propsummit.com/upload/696/b63.jpg
http://propsummit.com/upload/696/b64.jpg
http://propsummit.com/upload/696/b65.jpg
http://propsummit.com/upload/696/b66.jpg
http://propsummit.com/upload/696/ammohole.jpg
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DARKVIEW
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks the same sidkit...Thanks but I find I cannot see the detail of the wire placement...
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Bwood
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 2:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, that's the best I can do. That's a worldcon sidkit wiring. What is missing in these photos that you are looking for? They look pretty clear to me. Did you want a pre-worldcon diagram? Confused
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DARKVIEW
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Bwood, Pre- Worldcon would have been good to see... I'll print those samples out to check & perhaps make a easier LED compartment like the Off world blaster if no good.
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racprops
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well the picture shows the slide switch on the side and that feature IS Worldcon.

Rich
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Bwood
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Thanks Bwood, Pre- Worldcon would have been good to see...

Here's pre-worldcon Sid.

http://propsummit.com/upload/696/bladril53.jpg
http://propsummit.com/upload/696/bladril54.jpg
http://propsummit.com/upload/696/bladril55.jpg
http://propsummit.com/upload/696/bladril56.jpg
http://propsummit.com/upload/696/electronics2.jpg
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DARKVIEW
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mint, thanks...so the switch at the back!!! That's a new one on me Wink
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racprops
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No one knew of the switch between the LEDs on the side until Karl and I photograph the real prop at worldcon.
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racprops
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The picture posted shows that kind of switch.
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DARKVIEW
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah l can see..Interesting to know.

Thought l'd show people the LED Casing for a OFFWORLD prebuilt (top left) & my SidKit Worldcon right below...

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Last edited by DARKVIEW on Wed Sep 16, 2015 7:20 am; edited 1 time in total
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DARKVIEW
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 6:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is what Bwood Kindly sourced for me...
spaghetti Junction here l come!!!

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DARKVIEW
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 7:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With this Sidkit I'm going to join these 2 parts!!!?, should l solder or proxy glue!? Feedback & advice from the pros/experienced on all aspects on this thread hopefully is valuable to us makers/buyers of this fabulous blaster so you know what your getting and what's involved. Im saving for next year to go Richards & possibly tomenosuke if the wife don't catch me

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racprops
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 7:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Neither, the bolt turns and the rear cap has to be loose, there should be a hole in the back of the rear cap and you need to drill into the back of the bolt and thread the hole.

The bolt turns on the pin in front and the screw though the rear cap.

And again you picture shows a Worldcon model.

The slot in the side of the rear cap is the travel stop, a small short screw goes though the side of the receiver and though that slot and stops the bolt and rear cap from going far.

Like this:


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