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WTB: Clear or "Root Beer" Tomenosuke Blaster Grips

 
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BadAtNames
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Joined: 22 Jan 2017
Posts: 28
Location: Albany, NY

PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2017 11:27 am    Post subject: WTB: Clear or "Root Beer" Tomenosuke Blaster Grips Reply with quote

I'm looking for anyone who knows where I can find, or is willing to part with, a set of clear or "root beer" colored grips for a Tomenosuke blaster pro.

Not looking to retrofit with a Coyle outer grip frame/buttplate for the clear, just looking for Tomen clear grips specifically.

Willing to trade a set of unmodified amber grips in addition to payment.

Thanks!
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ogrotesque1
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Joined: 30 Sep 2016
Posts: 79
Location: La Palma, CA

PostPosted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm on the hunt for some of these too. Not the most easy things to track down, that's for damn sure!? Someone should just do a run and they'd always have the molds on hand? That would kick some serious replicant ass!
What would really be cool is to learn how to make them by hand from scratch out of acrylic. It can't be that hard? Its mainly heating up the acrylic to be formed into shape and then some cutting and trimming. Sounds fun, but very labor intensive.
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Skin-Job
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Joined: 05 Mar 2007
Posts: 562
Location: London, England

PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 3:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't be that hard?


' Its mainly heating up the acrylic to be formed into shape and then some cutting and trimming'


it really isn't.

Karl
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ogrotesque1
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Joined: 30 Sep 2016
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I personally have never tried working with acrylic so, I have no idea or concept of what to expect or even what it takes in terms of forming, cutting, or even transferring the crosshatch pattern onto the acrylic. It sure sounds difficult right out the gate!? Of coarse, it'd help heaps if you have any artistic talent in your DNA, which I do luckily! After reading an older thread on here about a certain replica Hero Blaster (serial # 3289) that was scratch built by a professional Hollywood FX guy that made the grips from 1/2 inch thick acrylic and stating he would make them for anyone that wanted to pay $750.00 per set, I was lead to believe that there was some difficulty involved. Why else such a high price tag? I'd like to try my hand and take a crack at it, regardless.

Am I sensing a bit of sarcasm from you Karl, or are you honestly telling us that there's nothing to it?
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Buch
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Joined: 27 Feb 2014
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Location: Copenhagen, Denmark

PostPosted: Thu Jun 08, 2017 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not resin casts?
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ogrotesque1
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Location: La Palma, CA

PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 5:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That was always my first though, but I know how people feel about recasting on here and other prop forums and that's a BIG no-no! I don't think it's something that should be done either. So, I'd have to sculpt the bucks anyway, why not just try it in acrylic from the get-go!? Then I could cast my own after that if I felt they where worth duplicating. I've watched a few YouTube videos on the process and I'm kinda understanding now what tools were used where on sections of the grips. I would need a router though, which I don't have....yet! Also, with casting you have to worry about bubbles getting trapped inside the resin and that wouldn't fly at all! There's some ugly bubble filled cast resin Amber grips on the evilBay right now if anyone is interested?
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Skin-Job
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Joined: 05 Mar 2007
Posts: 562
Location: London, England

PostPosted: Fri Jun 09, 2017 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, you're right.
I was being sarcastic Smile

To produce a set of grips machined direct from solid billets (blocks) of the correctly coloured acrylic material requires a great deal of skill and some specialist machinery.
Kenney Palkow made the set you're talking about. Kenney is a very talented and experienced machinist.

The grip checkering isn't transferred to the grip panels, it's machined into them.

Casting a set is certainly the way to go, as you can adjust the colour of the final cast (as you start with a water clear resin and add dyes). Plus, you'll have a set of master moulds from which to cast other sets to sell.

You'll need to start with models of the grips you want, oversized by the precise amount of the compound shrinkage of the moulding silicone rubber, and the clear casting resin.

The better the finish on the master models, the better the surface of the mould, and the better the surface of the grips cast from them.

Karl
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