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BR12819
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Joined: 31 Oct 2006
Posts: 180
Location: Atlanta, GA

PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 6:10 pm    Post subject: I need some painting tips Reply with quote

Hey everyone,

Well I've had this old blaster kit laying around for a while and I've finally decided to throw some paint on it. What I'd like to know are just some tips on painting. As in, what colors I should use, what brand works best, good technique, etc. Any push in the right direction would be helpful. (note: I've already sanded, filled and, primed it) even if its a link to a painting tutorial I'd appreciate it.

thanks
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Last edited by BR12819 on Thu Jul 24, 2008 9:40 pm; edited 1 time in total
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hirohawa
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Joined: 18 May 2006
Posts: 1067

PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it is resin silver rub and buff does an amazing job on flat black to give it a weathered metal look.
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clutch
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Joined: 12 Dec 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anyone have a blaster 'color map'? It would be nice to have a guide to let us know what parts should be gunmetal, black, silver, etc....
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Anson James
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Location: Ireland.

PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wanted to know if the Bulldog handle was silver, gunmetal or black...

I used Birchwood Super Blue - perfect for the Barrel, etc.
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BR12819
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes i think the color guide would be a great addition to propsummit, hell we could do multiple versions, i.e.: worldcon,standard,etc. with brands of paint that have worked best and maybe a few tips on technique. Does this sound do-able?
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Mr Hyde
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Joined: 10 Jun 2008
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would love a paint & finish guide too!

I have the new Worldcond sidkit and I've spent the last 2 weeks bringing the exposed metal pieces to a high polish by wet sanding using progressively finer grits (400, 600, 1000, 2000). I use double-layer latex gloves when working (they get ripped up) because the gunk settles in every fingerprint, pore, and under fingernails and it came to a point where my wife said I couldn't touch her unless I used protection...

Here are my results so far:

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DeckB26354
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Joined: 24 Oct 2007
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, what a fine job. I never realised just how important protection was until i saw your lurvly photo.

I am lucky enough to own an origianl 1968 Steyr Receiver and used 'Birchwood Casey Perma Blue - Paste Gun Blue' on it to bring it to a really fine finish. Just like the original Hero Prop.

I have hear that this works very well on the casts too. I am about to try it on a Sidkit version of the reciever. Rolling Eyes

Let me know how you get on.......


Have a better one!
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andy
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Location: Rochester, NY

PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A paint guide is a great idea.

I may be able to sketch one out in a few days. The Bulldog interior grip is blackened aluminum. You can see just a bit of edge wear in the Worldcon photos. A flat black primer would replicate the look well. The outside grip frame seems to be aluminum or stainless painted gloss black as are the cylinder covers. The Steyer Reciever was Blued a dark gun metal that was scrubbed off, giving it a multi tonal quality especially with the rust. The Steyr Clip and housing are black plastic, that is glossy. The trigger guard is bare steel with a bit of rust. The barrel I think is gunblued about as much as the Bull dog itself is, also with a bit of rust. The butt plate is aluminum or stainless that the very bottom was painted flat black, probably to reduce glair from the lights on the flat surface. The triggers seem slightly blued as well, but still not as much as the Steyr reciever was. They may be just showing a natural patina, but I think they were once blued but normal extended wear took off the bluing more naturally.

I hope this helps. I know pictures would help more but I am at work and unable to post from here.

Andy
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BR12819
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Location: Atlanta, GA

PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 1:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

so for this painting guide we would need to know how to replicate bluing on resin and also a rust type finish. i've heard that using a black or blue sharpie can fascimilate that effect but, i'm not positive, one of the other member should be able to clarify that up. when this is all said and done would it be possible to move and or stickie this in the more appropriate area, if there is such a place?
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SaberFreak
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 2:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since we're talking bluing and coloring, I hope its ok for me to post this here.

Anyone know how many Worldcon kit can a simple bluing kit cover? If it can cover 2 - 3 kits then I'd like to buy someone's unfinished bluing kit. I need enough for 2 kits.

I'm sure a lot of people would have unfinished bluing kits just sitting there going to waste, and I need them for cheap. So why not have a win-win situation?

PM me if you have some to offer. Thanks!
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andy
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Location: Rochester, NY

PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shipping might cost as much as the bluing, just to let you know. You can pick up a small bottle for well under $10. Plus shipping an open bottle of toxic liquid could get you in trouble with the post office.

Andy
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BR12819
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Location: Atlanta, GA

PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 2:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

are we talking about cold blue? from what i understand you buy a bottle of the stuff to repair/replace gun bluing
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clutch
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2008 2:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some line art like Rick's would be nice. Smile



I can't believe that Blue Wonder Gun Blue is $83 dollars!! That's crazy!! I do see that Birchwood Casey Perma Blue and Super Blue are a fraction of the Blue Wonder price. The question now is, which one to get?

As for painting the resin version, Testors has a bunch of metalizer paints in different colors. I was planning on trying these on my Rick Ross blasters.
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hirohawa
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2008 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For metal finishes there is also ALCLAD II which has the best metal finish, better than testors but it is more fragile, so you can't handle the piece alot.
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BR12819
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Location: Atlanta, GA

PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2008 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so perhaps we could expand the guide to include paint for dispay only and, paint for going to cons and such.
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Anson James
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Birchwood Super Blue only costs about $10 and is way better than the Blue Wonder stuff.
The darker color it produces is much more the like the real Worldcon finish.


Didn't have any trouble with the post office either - it is super toxic judging by the smell of it though...
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clutch
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know if I'd be lugging this to a con unless I wanted to get arrested. lol!
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clutch
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any of you pros want to take a stab at naming the colors:



We have permission to use this image and I am seeing if he has one of the reverse side.


Last edited by clutch on Sun Aug 03, 2008 10:19 am; edited 1 time in total
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BR12819
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i appreciate the upload clutch, we're now half way to having a guide.
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clutch
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 11:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I couldn't wait, so I thought I'd take a stab at it. I do have questions though. Is the bulldog blued the same throughout? Or, for example is the trigger guard or frame lighter than the barrel? Is the Steyer a darker gunmetal than the bulldog? Is the bolt and bolt handle lighter or blued the same as the Steyer barrel?



btw, why aren't the images showing up here?


Last edited by clutch on Sun Aug 03, 2008 10:18 am; edited 2 times in total
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