Show off BLUED BLASTERS

[Noeland]

OK, I need to see, discuss, and learn about bluing for your metal sidkits. I'm building a pre-worldcon sidkit for a friend and if possible I'd like to do a nice deep, polished blue finish. Plus, I'd just like to see all the blued blasters in one thread.

I know some of you guys had blemish/spot issues and such, so I'm very curious how those happened, and what I can do to avoid them. I've only ever blued steel. That was many years ago too.

Thank you in advance everybody. I will share my own results too as the work starts on the build.


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I don't have enough blasters!

[Staar]

I'm not sure it's possible to get a true 'blued' finish on the Sidkit - either Andy or PropsJohnny can advise..

Certainly using the wiped on, Blue Wonder formula it appears that the metal compound is reluctant to take the darker shade and I also found that it tends to be a brownish hue as opposed to true deep blu color.

Personally, I prefer the brown mottle because it worked far better with the weathered finish I was after but, I can appreciate that if the owner is after a finish similar to the Tomenosuke, then this rugged solution certainly won't satisfy.

I'm very interested in hearing opinions in this regard



Regards and best

MARK
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[Bwood]

I have begun to polish the Sidkit parts that will be black and will be using the Blue Wonder "black" bluing on them. If the results are unsatisfactory, I guess I'll have to paint them, which I'd like to avoid. Any other bluing products that will produce a good black finish on these parts? The non-black parts will have a matte finish and will be done with Blue Wonder blue. We'll see ….
If anyone has examples of the differences in the "blue" and "black" Blue Wonder products, I'd love to see them.
Thanks,
Bwood

[andy]

One of the best Sidkit metal finishes I saw used the bluing, and then used black shoe polish on top of it before wiping it down. I also remember seeing someone using an airbrush combined with sharpee markers to get colored metal stains, that were semi-permanent. I have yet to try the technique, and believe I saw it in an issue of Fine Scale Modeler, circa 1990's

Andy

[Noeland]

I should add, this is not intended to be a distressed finish. My friend really wants an "as first issued" look. He wants it to look new and classy.

In the end, I may have to paint it to achieve that look, but before I go that route, I want to investigate bluing possibilities.

On the idea of using a sharpie, that's interesting. I've used sharpies before to color over orange plastic and it can look pretty good. It's not durable though and I'm hoping to produce a very durable finish for this one, and make a one of a kind model.

Hoping.


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I don't have enough blasters!

[joberg]

I used sharpie before, but you have to be carefull with it; it tends to get discoloured with exposure to sunlight and can react badly with some clear coat varnishes (high gloss or mat). Sometimes it turns yellow or, depending on the medium...green! I use Pentel instead (Japanese brand) and their ink is darker and more durable and most of all: stable.

Shoe polish is also a good idea (some brands are of a better quality than others) but if I use it I'll put the entire can on fire to melt the polish and then apply onto the medium (old Army trick to have super shiny boots ) it works on metal fairly well: pewter and aluminum are best.

Another one is trying to find pencil used to re-touched photos...they work very well and you'll have more control. The problem is to try to find those type of pencil; you're local Michaels doesn't have them...best of luck