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Rachael's Black Dress
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Once-bitten
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I sometimes wonder if she's human...
Funny how I seem to have no problem going shoe shopping with my sweety when we're looking for BR Dress Shoes...they are pretty swanky!
I saw her first!
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andy
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very cool and welcome aboard Rachael/Rachel. My girl is going to get her measurements for me and I can send them to you. I can't wait to see what you come up with for yourself. I personally am looking to do a Gaff costume and have been looking for trench coats and waistcoats that are closer than what I have.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thought you might want to see this...at least to get a look at the fairly straightforward approach to the back of the dress.



Last edited by Once-bitten on Thu Sep 13, 2007 6:00 pm; edited 2 times in total
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 7:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check-out these bad boys...


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Rachael
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are some of the patterns I used as references. It's nice to have a jumping-off point before diving in to the drafting process; saves on the wrinkle-wrinkle-toss-swear part of the project.


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Rachael
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The medallions on the suit are pretty much what will make or break this one, like the collar on Deckard's coat. I started off by cutting squares in various sizes out of interfacing and playing with them until I was happy with the size and placement. Once I had that down, I used the squares as a base for the medallion fabric, a similar process to paper piecing. The interfacing base allows the edges to be nice and crisp.


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Rachael
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So here is the left side with the medallions applied. Not easy to get a good shot, since the fabric is shot with metallic thread and any flash makes it light up like Christmas. So these are no flash, shot at 1:00 am (yes, that's when I take a lot of pictures. sleep is over-rated.) I varied the pattern on each a bit, after looking at the original in Seattle back in April. I plan to mimic the patterns on the sleeve.
Now that I have the infuriating parts done, I can get on with putting everything together.



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superjedi
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow! You're a costuming machine!
Make sure you get Paul to model this one, too for the final photos.
. . . On second thought. . .
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey now!
...only if I get to wear the Christian Dior Lingerie that goes on underneath it!
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Rachael
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, I swear that if he ever wore Christian Dior I would take and post the pics.

Shocked
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Luckily my day's and nights of dressing like a woman are well past me...I mean...IF I were to dress like a woman...NOT to say that I HAVE dressed like a woman in the past...NOT that there's anything wrong with that...
Nevermind... Embarassed
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Rachael
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, it's progressing. I have the suit almost complete, everything looks good, but the collar is giving me grief. The problem is that faux snake (plastic) just doesn't behave like fabric does. Tonight I plan to apply collar 3.1, and then everything should be hap hap happy again.
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Rachael
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another thing I noticed about the dress; the leather piecing on the diamonds is evocative of the tiles in Deckard's apartment. I like the whole theme/motive and the way it pulls everything together. Almost like someone sat down and thought it out somehow.
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Rachael
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After a handful of failed attempts to draft the collar, I called in an expert for help. My friend Kay is a designer (and my former employer) who has an amazing eye. She sorted through the near misses and we found a way to get vinyl to behave itself and make a collar. Once I pick up the jacket from her studio (where I left it behind), I will be able to get this finished. In my defense, I was distracted by trying on my new silk ballgown which was commisioned for my birthday.

And here's how I did it:
To mimic the real skin on the original, I cut 1" strips then sewed them together, topstitching on either side of the seams. I then mitered the corners by folding the shorter piece at a 45 degree angle, topstitching, and cutting away the excess.

In the same way I made the medallions, I cut heavy interfacing to the pattern we drafted, then wrapped the edge of the vinyl over it to shape. The undercollar is then basted in place, like a men's suit collar.

To solve the whole 'vinyl doesn't roll' problem, the collar was applied to a collar stand made of the fashion fabric, which can be steamed to the shape of the neckline. After being blocked overnight, it should hold its shape when applied.


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Rachael
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 7:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After figuring out the side medallions, the sleeve was pretty easy. First I sewed in the right sleeve so I could check for placement. Pretty simple, the diamonds line up with the grainline straight down from the shoulder seam. I used the two motifs from the side, and added the middle design. If anyone wants details on how I pieced these, I have more pics available.

Because of the shot in the fabric, you can see the grainline where I lined up the diamonds. Pretty simple, just line em up and stitch em down. To keep the fabric from dimpling, I have interfaced everything. You can see on the reverse where I topstitched, which gave a cool dimensional affect.


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Rachael
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And with the left sleeve on. The first pic is what it actually looks like, then I overexposed it to show detail. I am really trying to avoid flash since this fabric looks like Steve Martin's light-up suit when that much wattage hits it.

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andy
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

looking great Smile
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amish
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is some amazing work! I cannot thank you enough for showing us this wonderful piece.

Can't wait to see more!

Tom
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superjedi
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 1:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Man oh man. . . hope we get to see some good pics from Halloween.
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Rachael
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As many of you well know, the devil is always in the details. But I am getting the last of those details worked out, and wishing at times I was working with a slightly less pliable medium. Of course, those times pass and everything works out fine, you forget the discards and there are visions of unicorns in the distance.

I should have more pics up tomorrow, and will definately have pics from this weekend early next week. I am hoping that there will be some kind of lobby display at the theatre so I can get some shots in front of those. Otherwise, we'll have to just scout some dark alley instead. Good thing we'll be packing a blaster.
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