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PKD-II 2018 MODEL (2013 RECREATION PROJECT FINISHED!!!)
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hirohawa
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Joined: 18 May 2006
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 6:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks awesome! When can I buy one?
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DaveG
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Joined: 13 Mar 2011
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yet another outstanding creation! Well done.
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Skin-Job
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 1:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks fantastic Rick!


Karl
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joberg
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Joined: 06 Oct 2008
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another home-run on that one Rick (and the paint job is A+ in my book) Cool
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doppelganger01
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Joined: 05 Nov 2006
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you! I'm glad you like it. It took me long enough to finish, but I am pleased with the results. As far as availability is concerned, I will post information in the prop shop soon about that.

Rick
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Daigoro
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Joined: 16 Jan 2015
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

another exciting blaster.... beautyful!
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andy
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Joined: 01 Nov 2006
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Location: Rochester, NY

PostPosted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very sexy! Very Happy Always a great looking gun.

Andy
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Mechanized2400
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Joined: 10 Feb 2015
Posts: 55
Location: Texas baby!!!

PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2015 12:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What a beauty! The finish of the blaster is incredible. Can't wait to get one of these!
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Bwood
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Joined: 20 Sep 2009
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2015 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Impressive. I'd be curious to know how you achieved the bare metal look on the barrel/receiver.
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doppelganger01
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Joined: 05 Nov 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 1:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you all again.

I am happy to share with you the painting technique I used.

For the ejector port plate and grip plate, I used Testors buffable metalizer stainless steel spray paint. Once the paint cures you just buff it with a soft, non scratch cloth. The grip plate got a single coat of black prime on the bottom, only after the metalizer paint had settle for a few days. Then with "0000"steel wool, I gently rubbed away the black with unidirectional strokes to expose the metalizer paint beneath.

The barrel was done differently. After a gray primer coat was applied and dried, I used the same "0000" steel wool to knock down the etched texture or the primer until it was smooth, but not removed. Then I applied several coats of Krylon brand Chrome to the barrel. With about three coats on it, I used the steel wool to knock down its surface a bit until smooth, but not removed. Like with the bottom of the grip plate, I sprayed one coat of black primer over the silver painted barrel. The next day I used the steel wool to remove the black primer in the same manner as the grip plate. However in this instance I removed more of it so that it had a more even blend between the black and silver. In the photos above it looks entirely silver, but in actuality, the black is still visible. The bright lights used in the photo are washing it out and highlighting the silver more. The third and final layer can be tricky and requires some testing before hand to achieve the right look. The final layer is the faux pitting and rust effect. You aim the spray can of black primer at the stationary (hanging, or standing) barrel, with the nozzle about 24" away, then spritz a cloud of paint around it and let the cloud settle onto the barrel in speckles. This will give the appearance of tiny pitting. The more you apply like this, the older and more worn the effect. In this particular case, I went heavy (no more than 3 spritz of paint clouds). I followed up with a faux layer of rust speckles by repeating the process with rust red primer, only once though.

For the upper receiver I wanted a different tonal effect and less corrosion. I followed the exact same procedure as I used for the barrel, but, instead of chrome paint, I used Tamiya metallic black for plastics. It was necessary for me to be more careful with the upper receiver because of the tiny letters. Too many coats of paint would fill in the letters. Tamiya sprays go on super thin, allowing you to gradually build up the layers without gunking out the details. Once I had enough layers to just hide the gray primed plastic beneanth, I stopped. After a day had passed, I then sprayed some Stainless Steel Testors metalizer paint onto a paper towel and waited for that to completely dry. Once it was dry, I used it to rub down the surface of the Tamiya painted receiver part, just enough to transfer silver paint dust onto the piece. I hit a few high spots and corners and edges with silver rub-n-buf, making sure to apply lightly and blend the transition well with my finger tip. Then I spritzed the part with one black primer dust cloud (no rust red primer for this one).

The grip frame was painted with straight black primer and rubbed with the steel wool to smooth. On the edges or spots where the paint was rubbed down to the plastic, I applied the silver rub-n-buff, then sptized overall with black primer.

The two "cheek" parts and magazine housing was just primed with flat black and then buffed with a soft cloth.

The key to success with this process is to make sure the surfaces are smooth and scratch free. Sand marks will easily smile through the paint and break the illusion of it being a metallic surface.

I hope this will be helpful.

Rick


Bwood wrote:
Impressive. I'd be curious to know how you achieved the bare metal look on the barrel/receiver.

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Bwood
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for sharing all that information. Most generous of you.
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joberg
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Joined: 06 Oct 2008
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the tutorial Rick...really helpful. I've mentioned on the RPF that I would see that gun with a double muffler (one for the Steyr and for the barrel itself, somewhat joined together as one piece and, to respect the overall look, one longer than the other)...good idea or bad one?
What do you think?
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doppelganger01
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Joined: 05 Nov 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bwood wrote:
Thank you for sharing all that information. Most generous of you.


You are welcome. My method is not necessarily the best, or only way to achieve a faux metal look, but it's one way that I've managed to make work. For me, it is easier to make a model gun look old and worn, than it is to achieve that faux new in the box metal look. In all of my experiments to achieve the NIB look, I have only succeeded in achieving that "new toy in the box" look. I'm still working on it, though. Matsuo is still the best faux gunmetal painter I know. He can paint any model gun with any finish type and it looks amazing. I aspire to do the same one day. Good luck with the method I use.
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doppelganger01
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2015 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

joberg wrote:
Thanks for the tutorial Rick...really helpful. I've mentioned on the RPF that I would see that gun with a double muffler (one for the Steyr and for the barrel itself, somewhat joined together as one piece and, to respect the overall look, one longer than the other)...good idea or bad one?
What do you think?


Sorry I missed your comment on the RPF, Joberg. I've been battling chronic bronchitis these past few months and I've been less than consistent on keeping up with my correspondence. As it turns out, I actually am working on a spin-off version of the PKD-II, that is one of my Gaff gun rejects, which has a suppressor ready barrel and some other enhanced features and accessory parts. It will be finished soon too. Your description of your suppressor idea sounds like an integral design attachment that would compliment the aesthetic of the gun's lines more than just screwing on a can, like with the Zhora gun. It sounds like a great idea to me.

Rick
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joberg
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Rick...and I hope you'll feel better soon
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doppelganger01
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Joined: 05 Nov 2006
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you, Joberg. I will be ok. It's a condition I've been living with for quite some time. I usually have 3 or 4 months out of the year when I have to deal with it on a daily basis. Then it clears up for the balance of the year. I just have to take precautions when I work at tasks that decrease the air quality around me, like painting or casting.

Rick
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Mechanized2400
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Joined: 10 Feb 2015
Posts: 55
Location: Texas baby!!!

PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 8:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for sharing the painting techniques with us all, Rick. Definitely goin to try out the cloud technique on my next paint job. The rust affect is always a tricky bugger with me, so I'm egar to give this a go.
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doppelganger01
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are two spin-offs I am working on for the PKD-II, one suppressed version and one extended barrel version. I will have the accessory parts printed this week and hope to have the finished actual models completed soon thereafter.








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hirohawa
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Joined: 18 May 2006
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow! Incredible!

Put me down for one of each of all three versions.

Amazing Work Rick.
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Mechanized2400
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Joined: 10 Feb 2015
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Location: Texas baby!!!

PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jaw droppingly crazy cool, so awesome! I love your interpretation on the BR blaster. Can't wait for a sign up list to start on these beautys.
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