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Another Tomenosuke Variant in the wings?
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hirohawa
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice catch Rich.

Where is that poster from? Is that going to be a real 24x36?

Totally want one.
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stonedog7563
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

racprops wrote:
I find the small things very interesting…it's my JOB…

I just spotted another small detail that they got wrong…The pin does not float above the barrel it rested right on it.

Rich



PS My model this is correct...it IS my JOB...



Should have kept that one to yourself Rich, I see yet another limited ultra super accurate version in the wings
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stonedog7563
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hirohawa wrote:
Nice catch Rich.

Where is that poster from? Is that going to be a real 24x36?

Totally want one.



That's the cover of the steelbook edition of the film.
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Buch
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Joined: 27 Feb 2014
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Location: Copenhagen, Denmark

PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm, think I'll try the bluing after all... I'm not too keen on the idea of painting the metal parts.... Still figuring out which method to use...

So far I think I've read about two different approches....

1) Either sanding the parts, then soaking them in undiluted bluing fluid. Then polish with scotchbrite cloths. Finally some kind of coat....

2) Or sanding, then soaking in different and increasingly more concentrated dilutions of bluing fluids. Three different all together, I think. Then polishing and a finishing coat....

Are there any pros and cons on these two methods?


stonedog7563 wrote:
I used it on the last kit (pro) the holes are tiny and not very deep, I sanded them out back to smooth metal and they have all gone, was just a bit scarey. yes I used Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black.

I've been sanding this thing so much now it looks more like a Deringer Very Happy

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racprops
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No need: my model has been correct there forever....

I saw that detail in the first stunt prop I got back in the 80s...even when I was sticking a red LED in as a Laser pointer, I put it on tip of the barrel.

Rich


stonedog7563 wrote:
racprops wrote:
I find the small things very interesting…it's my JOB…

I just spotted another small detail that they got wrong…The pin does not float above the barrel it rested right on it.

Rich



PS My model this is correct...it IS my JOB...



Should have kept that one to yourself Rich, I see yet another limited ultra super accurate version in the wings

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racprops
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I updated my first post on this...
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racprops
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

racprops wrote:
I find the small things very interesting…it's my JOB…

I just spotted another small detail that they got wrong…The pin does not float above the barrel it rested right on it.

And the center spike is too long and the detail around the hole the pin comes out is also incorrect...

How they did that wrong with one (or two) of my models on hand and with the same photos we all had I cannot figure...At lease these are not caused my manufacture needs like the moved grip frame pin used to hold the grip frame AND the rear of the trigger guard was done. (also incorrect...)

And yes I Am Nick picking Ahole...

Rich



PS My model this is correct...it IS my JOB...

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spinner 44
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

racprops wrote:
I find the small things very interesting…it's my JOB…







The chamfer in the front part of the receiver in the Tome is too small compared to the real one, the flat lip is too thick, the custom piece in front is not very correct in profile, just approximate: outher lip should be thicker, plus the rest of angles and proportions are more or less correct... I would have preferred them to be perfect
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VFX Freak
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Joined: 31 Mar 2013
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Location: Los Angeles

PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 4:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

spinner 44 wrote:
Best finish EVER. IMO, that's it of course.

Not only elegant, clean, but also movie accurate, as it was just released for the factory.

You just made my favourite blaster and will serve as inspitation, thank you Smile



Thanks for the very kind words, Spinner 44! Made my day.

My new Tomenosuke PRO arrived yesterday and now I'm going to start all over again. I must be nuts!
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VFX Freak
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buch wrote:
Hmm, think I'll try the bluing after all... I'm not too keen on the idea of painting the metal parts.... Still figuring out which method to use...

So far I think I've read about two different approches....

1) Either sanding the parts, then soaking them in undiluted bluing fluid. Then polish with scotchbrite cloths. Finally some kind of coat....

2) Or sanding, then soaking in different and increasingly more concentrated dilutions of bluing fluids. Three different all together, I think. Then polishing and a finishing coat....

Are there any pros and cons on these two methods?


If it makes any difference to your decision making process, Nobu (the man behind the beautifully finished Tomenosuke blasters) uses the bluing method that starts with a very diluted bath of the bluing chemical.

That's how I did mine and it worked. I found that jumping right in with the full strength stuff resulted in an inferior finish; rough, uneven, and very hard to control.

My two cents...
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Buch
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 3:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! It helps a lot Very Happy It's difficult to decide when I have absolutely zero experience with bluing! But it makes sence that you slowly build up the colour you want.... Think this will be my method of choice. I already got your excellent guide. I can only hope for a result half as good as yours, you really did a super job on that one Shocked


VFX Freak wrote:
Buch wrote:
Hmm, think I'll try the bluing after all... I'm not too keen on the idea of painting the metal parts.... Still figuring out which method to use...

So far I think I've read about two different approches....

1) Either sanding the parts, then soaking them in undiluted bluing fluid. Then polish with scotchbrite cloths. Finally some kind of coat....

2) Or sanding, then soaking in different and increasingly more concentrated dilutions of bluing fluids. Three different all together, I think. Then polishing and a finishing coat....

Are there any pros and cons on these two methods?


If it makes any difference to your decision making process, Nobu (the man behind the beautifully finished Tomenosuke blasters) uses the bluing method that starts with a very diluted bath of the bluing chemical.

That's how I did mine and it worked. I found that jumping right in with the full strength stuff resulted in an inferior finish; rough, uneven, and very hard to control.

My two cents...

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racprops
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 6:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Note you will be working with a chemical.

Good nitrate gloves, safety glasses and a face mask good ideas.

Open air and a table that you don't care about in case of spills..

Be careful.

Rich
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Buch
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good points, Rich, and thanks for your advice Very Happy It's much appreciated. Will be careful.

racprops wrote:
Note you will be working with a chemical.

Good nitrate gloves, safety glasses and a face mask good ideas.

Open air and a table that you don't care about in case of spills..

Be careful.

Rich

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VFX Freak
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rich does bring up very good points. I confess I probably spilled as much Perma Blue as I used on the gun. I got tired of buying (and knocking over!) the little bottles, so I just bought the big 32 ounce bottle.

I worked outside, (easier in Southern California in the colder months) and went through dozens of pairs of nitrile gloves. Buy extra supplies of everything!
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Zombie Soldier



Joined: 01 Oct 2014
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Location: West Sussex England

PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2014 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anybody know about issues with the triggers in the new kit?
I only ask because my friend in Japan is now sending another package with trigger parts.
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Buch
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 5:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is that an official send out from Tomenosuke??

Zombie Soldier wrote:
Does anybody know about issues with the triggers in the new kit?
I only ask because my friend in Japan is now sending another package with trigger parts.

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Pierre990429
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Joined: 06 Dec 2012
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 6:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How do your trigger parts look like ?

Here are some shots of mine (with other parts, especially the little springs, screws, "rods" - I pulled the content of some plastic bags out) :





It seems Ok to me, when I compare to the assembly instructions. (still haven't started)
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stonedog7563
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Joined: 19 Apr 2007
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2014 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been working on my Tomenosuke pro (the previous model) for far too long now as been having major issues with the bluing (like lots of people)

I knew the look I wanted before starting and did not want how it came out to dictate the look I ended up with, I tried most of the suggested methods but none seemed to work for me until I tried the method in the link below :-

http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=1202

and it seems to have worked for me in getting the look I was after Very Happy

Quick phone pic, more to follow



John
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joberg
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2014 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oohh!! Beauty John, beauty Cool
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Buch
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 3:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is looking really pro Very Happy Is it a steel barrel or did you polish up the plastic one?
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