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Beardybloke
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Joined: 30 Jan 2015
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Location: Plymouth,uk

PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 3:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brilliant Buch thanks for the details. I have the standard head on shot of the badge shown in your pictures above.
I was planning on resizing the photo to match the dimensions and then sticking a print off of the force lettering to some plasticard, then cutting out the letters with a scapal. That should make the sizing/shape of the letters fairly spot on.
It's surprising how big the badge compared the the wallet version
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Buch
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 6:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beardybloke wrote:
I was planning on resizing the photo to match the dimensions and then sticking a print off of the force lettering to some plasticard, then cutting out the letters with a scapal. That should make the sizing/shape of the letters fairly spot on.


That should work Very Happy I was planning on doing the same thing, but became impatient and freehanded the writing... Maybe next time Very Happy
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Replicant 13
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Location: OffWorld Park, USNA

PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 12:34 am    Post subject: CREATIVE LICENSE Reply with quote

Forgive the intrusion, but temptation took hold and so I took a moment to adjust the image that Buch was so kind as to post here earlier.

Taking a bit of creative license, I reduced the discoloration that has presumably yellowed the image overall from the appearance of the original. I then retouched the face and neck, getting rid of the imperfections, dust and scratches that may or may not have been in the original Polaroid, then reduced the grain a bit and adjusted the skin tones. And I added some extra height (It never hurts to have some excess area to play with) -



I realize you may not wish to use this, as it does vary from an exact representation of the known image, but I post it here for those who might.

HAB1! - R13
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joberg
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent job on that one Dave!
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Buch
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Location: Copenhagen, Denmark

PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2015 5:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Done the first high temperature silicone mold of the mock up... As you can see: Total disaster!

I've totally underestimated the lower viscosity of the hi temp silicone contra the details on the badge... Result: MILLIONS of air bubbles...

Going to do some more research and get some more silicone....



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Beardybloke
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2015 5:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I was pouring the grips for my derringer skinjob advised me to dust my mould with corn flour and then bang it off so only a thin coat remains.
This will then pull the resin into all the fine details by capillary action.
This may work in a similar way if you dust the badge hopefully it will pull the silicone into the details.
May be worth looking into bud
BB
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Buch
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2015 6:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! I think I'll try that.... Couldn't possible go worse than the first mold Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes
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joberg
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2015 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

...and baby powder will do the trick also. Put it in, shake it off and pour the resin
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Replicant 13
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 13, 2015 11:07 pm    Post subject: SILICON VALLEYS Reply with quote

You might consider trying another type of silicon. A friend suggested Smooth-On® brand, and another company, Eager Plastics (here in the States) makes a similar product. Neither requires "cooking" and take only a few hours to firm up.

I watched a friend pour some molds recently (this time without a vacuum pump). He simply drizzled the blue goo into the small nooks and crannies slowly building up a layer, and he used a small brush to insure that the goo got into all the details. Once that settled after a few minutes, he added the rest until he filled the box. (He had used LEGOs to build a box to the size and shape he needed). It takes a while to set up, but it gives the remaining bubbles time to rise to the surface.

He uses mold release or sometimes Pam to coat the object, if needed, brushing on a thin layer.

- R13
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Buch
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2015 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for your advice guys, they're much appreciated!

I've only been able to find high temp silicone by a company called DWRplastics...

Does anybody have links to alternate brands of high temp silicone...? Can't find one by SmoothOn Confused
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Beardybloke
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2015 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've also ordered my high temp silicone from Dwr plastics which is due to arrive tomorrow. So very interested in how you get on with it, as I'm planning on casting some metal parts for my off world blaster with it.
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Buch
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2015 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it's ok.... very easy to work with.... I think my problem is primarily the technique....

Mold number two came out just as bad and I'm out of silicone... I dusted the the mockup with baby powder and started coating the mockup with a thin layer of silicone that I pressed down in the crevices lightly with a brushed.... Had my hopes up, but it didn't work Mad Confused

Found a company in the UK that carries a Smooth-On product... Trying to convince them to ship to Denmark... Fingers crossed!

I'll probably end up getting a vacuum chamber....
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Beardybloke
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2015 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is that mold max 60 from benam.co.uk it says degassing is recommended but not a must,have you seen any an economic vacuum chamber Buch.
I supposed worst case scenario you'll end up with bumps on the badge where the pewter has run into the bubble holes, at least it's soft and easy to remove the excess metal and clean it up
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Buch
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 3:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mold max 60 from benam.co.uk - that's the one! I've also found something from Germany similar to this...

Havn't seen any economic vacuum chambers... You can get small ones (1-1,5 gallons) on eBay from the US. The price is 291 dollars including shipping and import charges....


One question: Could it be that the silicone developes air/gas bubbles when mixed and not only traps them?
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Beardybloke
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 4:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I try to to fold the to parts together to minimise bubbles and then when I pour it I do so from about2-3 foot so I get a long thin stream of silicone that way it stretches it out and most of the bubbles pop on the way down.
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Buch
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2015 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beardybloke wrote:
Yeah I try to to fold the to parts together to minimise bubbles and then when I pour it I do so from about2-3 foot so I get a long thin stream of silicone that way it stretches it out and most of the bubbles pop on the way down.


Tried that too... Maybe I'm just jinxed Evil or Very Mad
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Bucky Cat
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buch,

If you have a little extra silicone, might you try molding up something with less detail? It seems to me making a mold is an art. I'm just wondering if molding up a simple box or dome might build your skills and confidence. The FORCE badge just has so many places for bubble to hide.

The suggestions put forth here have helped me too as I learned the dark art of mold making: The baby powder, pouring from high up to get a very thin stream, gently poking around through the rubber to (hopefully) release air bubbles.

Best of luck with this project. It's a really, really cool one.

Ted.
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Buch
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bucky Cat wrote:
Buch,

If you have a little extra silicone, might you try molding up something with less detail? It seems to me making a mold is an art. I'm just wondering if molding up a simple box or dome might build your skills and confidence. The FORCE badge just has so many places for bubble to hide.

The suggestions put forth here have helped me too as I learned the dark art of mold making: The baby powder, pouring from high up to get a very thin stream, gently poking around through the rubber to (hopefully) release air bubbles.

Best of luck with this project. It's a really, really cool one.

Ted.


Thanks Ted Very Happy

I've had some pretty ok results using the regular silicone from the same company on some other projects.... But you're right, it's an art and there's a certain learning curve... Patience is not one of my finest virtues!

But guess some rehearsing wouldn't kill me Confused

I'm getting more silicone, a different type similar to the Smooth-On product... Will do some small tests to get familiar with the product...

Really: Thanks for all your advice guys
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Beardybloke
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No thanks needed Buch your always eager to share information So always a pleasure
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joberg
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're welcome...and that what Propsummit is all about: sharing Wink
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