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DaveG
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 10:17 am    Post subject: Getting a Grip Reply with quote


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andy
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked
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Noeland
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clear as water.
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hirohawa
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice
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Beardybloke
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ice to see you
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Skin-Job
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 3:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave,

That looks great. Really nice work.


Karl
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DaveG
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually I can't take credit for these. A friend of mine poured them. We talked about making clear grips and he pulled a mold off the onse provided in the Tomensuke kit. These are just for my use. Not for sale.
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Beardybloke
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

May I ask what pourable plastic was used as it's a gorgeous finish Dave
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DaveG
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

www.silpak.com

RU-525 two part water clear polyurethane. Same stuff I used to make the amber grips for my Snub Nose Blasters.

It's a PITA to use. The mold has to be platinum based silicone, not the more common tin based. The resin needs to be first de-gassed in a vacuum chamber to get rid of the big bubbles from mixing and once poured into the mold left to cure in a pressure chamber at 80 to 100 psi to get a crystal clear result. After that it needs to be post-cured at about 125 to 150 degrees for 4 to 6 hours. And even then you'll get a lot of rejects.
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Beardybloke
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 4:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow well that's put me off giving it a try haha Shocked Shocked thanks for sharing Dave
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joberg
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beauty grips there Dave...and no, I'm not keen to try to pour a set for myself anytime soon Wink but thanks for the tuto.
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racprops
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did mine with the same stuff BUT i had less fuss.





I can see some of mine and they are for my current model only, they will not fit on other models.

Rich
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Staar
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 2:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simply Spectacular Dave!

Highest regards

MARK
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DeckB26354
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice.

Did you suffer from any shrinkage?
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DaveG
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This resin does have a very slight amount of shrinkage, but not enough to really be noticable. The center to center distance of the holes is very slightly less than the stock grips that the mold was made from but not enough to be a problem.

However, the material can shrink away from the surface of the mold sometimes and create an imperfection. this is more of a problem with closed molds than open back molds.
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Skin-Job
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try keeping the mould cool as the resin cures.
These resins set with a marked hyperthermic reaction.

The thicker the section of the casting, the hotter it will get during curing.
The shrinkage away from the mould surface is a result of slight distortion of the casting due to the heat generated.

Cooling the mould or allowing to cure in a slightly cooler area will slow the reaction.

Or, better still, pour in two hits. First slush half of the required resin around the mould and let it cure, then top up with a second batch when the first is set hard.


Karl
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racprops
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Funny as I was told to preheat my molds to 200 then cast them in a pressure tank.


And once in production to keep working the warm molds.


Rich
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Skin-Job
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 2:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The we've been given contradictory advice, Richard.
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Skin-Job
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 20, 2015 5:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Went back to check.

Pilot error on my part I'm afraid.

I had the material confused in my notes with a Polyester clear cast from the same maker.
Rich is indeed right and the moulds should be run warm.

Apologies,

Karl
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DeckB26354
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2015 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info Dave. Interesting stuff. Do you think your friend would be any good at doing another set but in a good Amber colour?
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