Mods & Upgrades to the 'Offworld Mfg. Model 2019'

[steevy]

I saw the thread on it.I just don't know how to go about attaching it,I'm not handy with that sort of thing.

[Noeland]

Well, if you can't do somehting yourself that needs doing, that means you're either paying for it, or asking a friend to do it for you.

I'm betting there are plenty of folks on the board who'd "upgrade" your blaster for you, and repaint and rework it for you, if you asked nicely.


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I don't have enough blasters!

[andy]

The screw where the weaver knob normally is molded into the cylinder cover, so it would be pretty hard to grind out, you wouldn't also be able to just 'screw it in' afterwards either.

Painting may be the easy part. I am also looking into the oven cleaner paint removal trick for the metal parts at least. The plastic should be painted over after sanding without an issue. I would love someone to make some Grip frames and Butt Plates out of metal though.

[steevy]

That would be great Andy wouldn't it?

[ralphee]

Guys the paint removal is way easy, the paint itself is very thin, i used very fine wire wool and the whole blaster was clean once i got through rubbing...and rubbing lol.
Even the reciever strips down to bare metal in no time.
Its a way easy paint up too, this is the first blaster ive painted and while its not up to par as most i see for wear and accuracy, it looks nice on display.
Other things to note, the std one has tons of flash that needs to be cleaned up on the ABS parts, also the barrel is in two halves, so i cleaned up the seam and removed the orange plug, that makes it look heaps better IMO.
You will find, if you put her back together well enough, youll lose all the cheap creaky feeling to it too, mine now feels super solid, i even locked down the trigger guard as the way it was as std, well, its blooming awful lol.
Hell if you like mine, id be happy to paint some up for the UK guys if they dont feel up to it. Mine took a weekend and its a pretty simple job!

bests......lee

[Noeland]

And if I wasn't obvious, if your stateside, I'll rework/repaint the blaster for you, free of charge, just send me the stuff, and pay for shipping back, and I'd be happy to do it.


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I don't have enough blasters!

[steevy]

I didn't want to be presumptuous Noeland.The last time I had it apart the screws almost stripped the plastic,in one case I used some super glue to hold a small screw in place.It is no trouble at all to take apart except for the stripping problem.

[grimm]

[svander]

I just registered here and plan on picking a replica up pretty soon. I have about $250 to play with right now and the Blade Runner geek in me just has to get the coolest gun ever made.

Considering an Offworld since it's not a bad option. Any thoughts? Any others I should consider for that budget? Thanks in advance for any input. I've been lurking for a while and all of you seem like a great bunch!

[The Loyalizer]

I can't speak to the Offworld blaster myself, but they do seem to clean up nice with a little work. I can say that Rick's PKDs while not 100% film accurate are great kits with a style all their own, and they look damn good. Plenty of folks have customized them and the results are always unique. Rich's stunt blasters are good too, as are his full buildups. Ultimately it comes down to how much you want to spend and how much work you feel like doing.
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"We began to recognize in them a strange obsession..."

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[svander]

[ChrisNightingale]

Hi all,

Being another newbie I thought I would say "Hi Everybody". I recently bought the briefcase "Final Cut" version (to replace my aging laserDisc) and am now absolutely hooked (not sure why I wasn't the last time - I guess the quality of transfer was never up to scratch!!)

Anyway, like most people I now want a blaster so bad it's almost a case of money's no object (well in limit!!!) except of course being in the UK which always spoils all the fun cos of the recent law change regarding replicas (to buy an airsoft you need to be a member of a club!!) I would love to get a "SidKit" or the king of kings, the "WorldCon" but I gather that's a little tricky because of availability (note: there is a partial SidKit on Ebay right now for anyone who's interested)

So I'm sourcing a couple of models one being the Offworld blaster cos of the metal bits and after seeing ralphee superb paint job I think I wanna do the same.

Someone mentioned weathering the gun and would be inclined to agree to give it that scratchy metal look. I did see some very old L&S models from the 80s which used a superb technique for creating the old gun look. They basically primer the model, then spray silver and then black on top. Then they sand the black slightly until the silver showed through a little - the results were remarkable. I think that would look good especially with some of those sharp edges begining to turn silver.

In terms of colours I think the light silver for the receiver which although might be authentic is a little too silver - I would be included to go for a kinda two tone, a lighter grey on the top and black on the rest.

Does anyone have any good guides to creating a weathered look - I mean how is it achieved? (using fine sandpaper or wire wool etc)

Thanks,

Chris
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British recipes

[The Loyalizer]

I've had success with both careful drybrushing of Citadel silver or boltgun metal paint over sanded black primer, as well as a bit of rub n buff pewter on an old bit of cotton t-shirt applied with a finger tip.

There's a lot of ways to do it, I've always wanted to try the powdered graphite over black paint trick, but never got around to it.
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"We began to recognize in them a strange obsession..."

http://fcomin.cgsociety.org/gallery/

[andy]

The problem I have had in the past with the layers of paint is that you begin to lose details and the gun starts to look painted. I had my best results by using flat black primer and then dry brushing and dry rubbing. Dry rubbing is very similar to dry rubbing is similar to brusing but you use a chamise cloth and your finger tip to give wear to the main wear areas. The paint has to be almost dry on the chamise and looks best when using a darker metalizer color to start and then dry brush with a lighter metal for scratches or areas of extreme wear.

The graphite always works great but the best graphite needs to be pretty ground down to a fine powder. I had my best luck with graphite from a mechanical pencil sharpener from drafting as opposed to the stuff you get for locks. It can also be rubbed in and applied freely and then wiped off with a clean cloth, and it gives the black primer almost a greasy finish. Then by using a pencil lead you can almost draw in scrathes and edge wear. I used it mostly on smaller military style model kits and haven't tried it on a full scale kit as of yet.

I would then hit the model with a semi gloss clear coat as light as possible. Too thick and it ruins the effect of the metal wear. An airbrush and a well ventilated area is highly recomended.

I also would put in liquid frisk into the text and recessed areas after first pass at priming to keeep them crisp, Then you could sand the rest of the kit and not lose the text at all.

[The Loyalizer]

Most art stores should carry sticks of graphite. Probably easier to sand down some of that than going through the sharpener.
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"We began to recognize in them a strange obsession..."

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[ChrisNightingale]

Hi Loyalizer/Andy,

Thanks for the suggestions. I have been looking around on some sites for tips and techniques for achieving weathered looks (not found any for guns yet) such as:

http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/techmain.htm

Can you guys recommend any good guides for myself and other newbies to this sort of stuff?

I have never tried creating weathered effects - only painted model cars which usually are painted so they look very bling/mint!!! But I take your points about not using too much paint - I know what you mean as well.

Thanks,

Chris
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Suzuki Carry History

[The Loyalizer]

One thing I did when I first started out was I got an old model kit that I no longer wanted, sprayed it over in a black primer, and I would practice dry brushing on that to get a feel for how much paint to put on the brush, what kind of strokes to use, the speed to make the strokes, ect.

It also gives you an idea of what the final effect will look like, and if you mess up, your prop isn't ruined or facing a repaint.
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"We began to recognize in them a strange obsession..."

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[ChrisNightingale]

[andy]

Plastic toy water guns also make good practice and can look really cool afterwards.

[KJBRETT]

Hello everyone.
I'm new to the forum but I've been trying to collect as much knowledge about the Blade Runner Gun in all its variants.
I thought this site might be of some interest:
Zospec

Specifically the Armory link:
DEKKADO Blasters
Prices:
Rod LED ¥5,800=$53.00
Hero Screw (HIROSUKURYU Ver.2) ¥2,800=$25.00 (5.9 grams of pure SUKURYU!)
Outer Barrel ¥12,000=$109.00
Bolt Unit ¥15,000=$137.00
Grip End ¥9,800=$89.00
Right Knob ¥2,500=$22.00

but also this(which I had never seen before):
HWS M2019C.S BLASTER w/Dot Sight

I hope this helps.