Fixing the finish on Tomenosuke Pro. SUCESS,..maybe

[jameth]

[jameth]

[Nexus7]

That was definitely it. If you don't throw them out, just hand wash the cloth with mild detergent in cold water and air dry it.

[jameth]

[Nexus7]

English is likely not his primary language so I am sure that there is something being lost in translation on both sides.

[cratercritter]

Yes, not easy to deal with them sometimes especially if you start to get into technical jargon, since English is their second or third language.

Mune is mainly involved with selling these blasters. He deals with Tomenosuke Company, so I would not think that Mune has a strong technical grasp for these blasters. He probably keeps referring to the Tomenosuke guys.

He probably meant SATIN instead of "SATENA" ?

I used to own the Tom-PRO first release, same as yours.
I was quite impressed with the receiver's hard glossy finish.
Looks like it was a chrome plating, such as BLACK CHROME over
the treated (?) zinc alloy (or aluminium alloy) steyr receiver. It was not blued. Doubt they would have gone to the trouble of bluing them and it looked very much coated in some hard paint or a PLATING.

My line of thinking was to see if they could send a replacement receiver from their parts "bin".... any left over Tom PROs from the original run...but that may be difficult since it was kind of a few years back now.
I'd remove the receiver from the gun and see if the finish can be
removed with a special paint chemical stripper that does not react to the base metal...clean up to a new base metal receiver, then paint it.
But if it is a plating, it could be hard to take off(??...dunno).

[Pierre990429]

I confirm that Mune has always been very helpful.

"satena" means "satin" in several languages.

could you go to this page : http://www.tomenosuke.com/blaster/

and tell us WHICH blaster PRO you have ?

There are several ones I think.

Personally, my first Tomenosuke was the PRO with the box designed by "Lady Aiko".

[jameth]

It's the first one. There are pics on page one.

Mune just got back to me and still thinks I ham talking about the latest retail edition which is why they are recommending painting.

I realize it is a second language but I can't explain it anymore so I am giving up dealing with them.


Painting is not an option as I have never seen any paint job look like the Stery did on this. It looked just like it should. A nice gun blued finish.

I guess I can try the gun store.

Thanks guys.

Everyone is saying something different on the material and finish so it's hard to know how to proceed.

I may just leave it. The pics make it look much worse than it is and any effort to fix it probably won't go well.

Thanks again for all your help guys.
_________________
Tom

[DaveG]

Be wary of advice from a gun shop. Guns are hardened steel, the receiver is soft zinc. They blue very differently. If you've read through any of the build thread for the kit you'll see that zinc is not the easiest metal in the world to get a good finish on.

I'd recommend an auto body wax as your first fix. rub it on, hand buff it out. It might fill in the micro scratches. If it doesn't help at least you can remove the wax and have done no harm.
_________________
Dave

"I just want to say people... Get A Life! Move out of your parent's basement! It's just a movie!"

[jameth]

[jameth]

Well I tried auto wax and that did very little.

Then I tried Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish. It did shine up the receiver very nicely but did nothing to fix the damage.

I can only dream of what it would have looked like with the Mothers polish on an undamaged finish.

Guess I am stuck with a damaged finish.

This used to be a fun hobby.

Not so much anymore.

Thanks for all the suggestions.
_________________
Tom

[PartyRichter]

Maybe a graphite polish similar to this would add some uniformity to the finish? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stovax-Black-Woodburner-Graphite-Polish/dp/B0035XHWPA
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Two weeks...

[RepliCAN]

[eltee]

Back in the 70's the Japanese "non-guns" were sold and became very popular. We used them in police training, etc. as they were made of "metal" and constructed the same as their real counterparts (with minute dimensional differences to deter part swapping). They were made of a zinc based alloy.

The nicer non-guns had a polished blue finish that resembled a blued finish on a real gun. They sold a refinish / touch up liquid specifically formulated to work on a zinc alloy. I remember using that stuff and it worked well.

While no longer as popular as they once were, there is still a non-gun industry in Japan and you may want to search a little to contact a non-gun maker or retailer. In Tokyo, etc. there are these little, narrow storefronts that still sell replica military uniforms and non-guns. If you have a contact in Japan, he/she might be able to find a bottle of the non-gun bluing liquid.

[Buch]

Any specific names or places to find these non-gun shops would be much appreciated as I'm going to Japan this summer....
_________________
Monsieur, azonnal kövessen engem bitte

[eltee]

[eltee]

I read in some of the non-gun forums (zinc alloy Japanese replica guns) that people heated their guns with a hair dryer and kept them warm / hot when applying the cold blue and that improved the results.

[jameth]

Well I stripped it and re-blued it and it's going to be gorgeous.

I finally had a chance to get some Mothers Aluminum Polish. Car wax was suggested to try as it won't hurt it and may work. It did not. Made it a little more shiny but that was it.

Then I tried the Mothers Aluminum Polish and man that made it beautiful. Just Gorgeous, but did not fix the damage. I think it might be factory flaws for some of it. The gun comes oiled and when I oiled it you could not see any of the damage until it's wiped off. Regardless the scratches were caused by that darn micro fiber cloth of mine.

Anywho since it was still not fixed I said screw it and stripped it quick and used a very old bottle of Gun Blue and did a quick test job on it. Then after used the Mothers on it and it looks great. Once I do a full strip with the actual Blue Remover/De-greaser and take the time to do a proper Bluing job with fresh blue, then polish it with Mothers it will look amazing.

I am hoping to get to it next week.

This also means the new one with just the top painted can be stripped and blued as can the trigger guard. That's the only difference I can see in the two other than the slightly lighter grips. Tomenosuke list of bunch of changes in this final version but all I could see is the grip color and the finish. Otherwise it looks exactly the same.
_________________
Tom

[Buch]

Pics or it didn't happen
_________________
Monsieur, azonnal kövessen engem bitte

[DVD Connoisseur]

Relieved that a solution's been found. Looking forward to seeing the restored masterpiece!