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RAC Props Working Front Trigger: Fabrications, Mods!?
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ogrotesque1
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2017 6:41 pm    Post subject: RAC Props Working Front Trigger: Fabrications, Mods!? Reply with quote

Hello fellow Blaster Enthusiasts,
I am working away daily on a Live-Fire conversion of my CA Bulldog with a beautiful Coyle Blaster Kit as the shell. I am very close to being finished, but I'm having a Hell of a time trying to think of something to get the Front Trigger to work!? Well, at least return by a spring ie return spring, anything other than just sagging there!? I will not use any glue because that ain't my style. Do anybody out there in the Off World Colonies have any suggestions or experience with fabricating or modifying the front trigger to work on Coyle's Kit? I promise to upload lots of pics of my Real Live-Fire Blaster when it is finished, so stay tuned! Meanwhile, any information about this Front Trigger Mod will be greatly appreciated, Thank you.

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hirohawa
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2017 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not get the real Smith & Wesson K frame trigger and modify that to work? May be easier since it is steel.
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ogrotesque1
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2017 7:07 pm    Post subject: This is a real Charter Arms! Reply with quote

I dont need a real K-Frame trigger, what good would that do me? It still would just hang there, but thats after modifacatuon to fit because you have to mill it a certain way to sit inside the Charter Arms Bulldog properly, and Rich supplied me with a metal replica of the K-Frame trigger that is already milled.
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hirohawa
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2017 9:23 pm    Post subject: Re: This is a real Charter Arms! Reply with quote

ogrotesque1 wrote:
I dont need a real K-Frame trigger, what good would that do me? It still would just hang there, but thats after modifacatuon to fit because you have to mill it a certain way to sit inside the Charter Arms Bulldog properly, and Rich supplied me with a metal replica of the K-Frame trigger that is already milled.


If it is properly milled then why is it sagging?
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ogrotesque1
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2017 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once again I will state that I am converting a REAL Charter Arms Bulldog into a live-firing replica of the Blaster in the film. A Charter Arms Bulldog frame isn't intended to have another trigger placed in front of it's own trigger. Sure, it can be done but, if there isn't any return spring of some sort to make the trigger return to where it must sit up along the top wall of the frame, otherwise it will just sag and swing on the pin it's hanging from due to a little phenomenon known as gravity! This isn't a Tomenosuke model we're talking about, no this is a REAL live firearm I'm using for the base.

ELTREE!! If you read this, please show me how or explain to me what you used to make your front trigger functional on your real shooter!? When I say "functional" I mean not just hanging and swinging freely on the pin, thank you!
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hirohawa
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2017 3:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sigh...

A REAL Bulldog? You mean like these four:



That nice hunk of steel 2nd from the top is also a REAL Steyr waiting to be converted.

This "gravity" thing seems to be working fine on them too.





Nothing to see here but a properly milled K frame trigger that doesn't sag.



There is a reason why I suggested the K Frame trigger in lieu of a cast trigger that was not designed to work with a real Charter.

Or do you want to continue to tell me how it is done and how I don't understand things?

There's this phenomenon known as arrogance. Not a very good trait when you are new to a board asking for help.
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ogrotesque1
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2017 9:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You question was rather vague, please except my apologies!? Those are some very lovely blasters there Horihama! I will give the real K-Frame trigger a go, but finding someone to correctlymill it for me might be quite difficult!? Thank you for passing on this knowledge though, I greatly appreciate it!
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ogrotesque1
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2017 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry again Horihawa!
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Buch
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2017 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hirohawa wrote:
Sigh...

A REAL Bulldog? You mean like these four:



That nice hunk of steel 2nd from the top is also a REAL Steyr waiting to be converted.

This "gravity" thing seems to be working fine on them too.





Nothing to see here but a properly milled K frame trigger that doesn't sag.



There is a reason why I suggested the K Frame trigger in lieu of a cast trigger that was not designed to work with a real Charter.

Or do you want to continue to tell me how it is done and how I don't understand things?

There's this phenomenon known as arrogance. Not a very good trait when you are new to a board asking for help.


Those look damn fine, sir!
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hirohawa
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2017 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Buch.

They are coming along slowly but surely. Only one pictured is actually finished.
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hirohawa
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2017 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ogrotesque1 wrote:
Sorry again Horihawa!


No worries. Unfortunately there are rarely cheap alternatives when dealing with real firearm parts that are functional. I think one could mill down a S&W trigger with a dremel and a file if they are patient and handy.

Study the real Charter Trigger guard and see how it mated to the frame - that is what needs to be replicated on the front trigger so it doesn't sag.
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ogrotesque1
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2017 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A Dremell!? Damn, I would think that those case hardened K Frame Triggers are pobably a little tougher than a Dremel!?!? Maybe not though, after about about 5 or 6 weeks if you keep at it?
Let me ask you this Horihawa: Does your front trigger have any action whatsoever? Of coarse it's mainly there for looks, but do you have a return spring on yours at all? Is it just static or does it reset when pulled?
I searched the forums over and over again for any live-fire BR Blaster threads and only ever ran into a couple of them, I never knew you had a full on arsenal of them!? As Jeff Spicoli would say: TOTALLY AWESOME!!!
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jameth
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2017 12:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my Coyle, not wanting to glue it in, and wanting to be able to pull it I used a spring from a swiss army knife's scissors. Took quite a few tries but I managed to get it glued in place and it worked great. I could pull my front trigger to my heart's content.

Of course if you really want to make a live fire version awesome hook up a green laser to the front trigger.
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ogrotesque1
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2017 12:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice! Glad to hear you were able to make it function!
That green laser/front trigger mod would be the beez kneez, I wish! I'm just trying to get it to return back in place after being pulled... the laser would look badass though!?
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hirohawa
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2017 2:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ogrotesque1 wrote:
A Dremell!? Damn, I would think that those case hardened K Frame Triggers are pobably a little tougher than a Dremel!?!? Maybe not though, after about about 5 or 6 weeks if you keep at it?
Let me ask you this Horihawa: Does your front trigger have any action whatsoever? Of coarse it's mainly there for looks, but do you have a return spring on yours at all? Is it just static or does it reset when pulled?
I searched the forums over and over again for any live-fire BR Blaster threads and only ever ran into a couple of them, I never knew you had a full on arsenal of them!? As Jeff Spicoli would say: TOTALLY AWESOME!!!


There is a bit of movement on one that gets reset by the cylinder stop. The other one is fixed and does not move at all.

A machine shop can probably knock out that trigger for you in less than an hour.
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ogrotesque1
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2017 3:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I took your advice and ordered 2 of them. They were very inexpensive on the evilBay, so I just snagged 2 just to be on the safe side. I figure whatever machine shop or gunsmith I end up with has probably never done this particular type of trigger mod before. One of them has the return spring still with it so, I'm hoping that I'll be able to use it if it doesn't interfere with the Cylinder Stop mechanism. If that doesn't work out I guess I'll be ordering a return spring from Charter Arms and give that one a go.
You said that you still need to machine the one real Steyr, are the other 3 replicas or are any of those real as well? Those blasters all look so kickass Horihawa, very impressive and thank you for all your insightful knowledge and photos! Do you happen to have anymore photos of those beauties to post please?
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racprops
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2017 8:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used to make my triggers so they were held in place by their shape.

Anyone remember the fuss “oncebitten” made over how a friend of his broke his pistol frame by pulling his front trigger??


It was a big fuss and he even did an amated logo with the trigger falling out of a blaster.

I then made my front triggers so they would pivot and NOT break any frames.

Putting in a spring from a Swiss army knife may not work in a REAL Bulldog because of the cylinder catch and lock system.
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Kokanee
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2017 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hirohawa wrote:


There's this phenomenon known as arrogance. Not a very good trait when you are new to a board asking for help.


It's not arrogance if you really are THAT good LOL!!!!
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hirohawa
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2017 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ogrotesque1 wrote:
Well, I took your advice and ordered 2 of them. They were very inexpensive on the evilBay, so I just snagged 2 just to be on the safe side. I figure whatever machine shop or gunsmith I end up with has probably never done this particular type of trigger mod before. One of them has the return spring still with it so, I'm hoping that I'll be able to use it if it doesn't interfere with the Cylinder Stop mechanism. If that doesn't work out I guess I'll be ordering a return spring from Charter Arms and give that one a go.
You said that you still need to machine the one real Steyr, are the other 3 replicas or are any of those real as well? Those blasters all look so kickass Horihawa, very impressive and thank you for all your insightful knowledge and photos! Do you happen to have anymore photos of those beauties to post please?


I think you will be happy with the results with the K trigger.

Will post more and better photos when everything is done. Years in the making.

From the top:

- Charter .44

- Steyr Receiver

- Off World Parts and Don Parker aluminum Sidkit Grip frame/buttplate and grips, Don Parker CNC Aluminum Bolt on a .38 Charter

- Tomenosuke Parts, Gunsmith Real Barrel and Steel Trigger Guard on a .44 Charter

- Silver "Ghost" Tomenosuke parts and custom resin grips, Gunsmith Real Barrel and Steel Trigger Guard on a .44 Charter.


Last edited by hirohawa on Tue Jan 10, 2017 9:32 pm; edited 1 time in total
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ogrotesque1
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 12:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am impressed, I would love to be able to show off an arsenal that badass! You must've been at this since way before the WorldCon reveal? I'm only assuming this because of the CA .38 SPL
The real question is: How do they fire?
Which one's have you actually fired?
Is there anyone out there still making upgrageable parts? I'd really like to get one of those CNC'd Sight Rods that were going around a while back, those look so nice and probably long gone!? I have some metal SidKit parts I don't need. I have a both Side Covers, Weaver Knob, Trigger Guard, Grips, Butt Plate, Barrel, Plastic Ammo Housing and Clip/Magazine the needs a little work done to it. If anybody is interestred or wants to see photos, let me know?
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