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Once-bitten
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also a good way to stop the whiting of the metal in the Sid-Kit is to use a good automotive grade "clear-coat" after a light wet sanding of the metal ...the trouble there is to get a relatively flat application.
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Eagle
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BeastMaster wrote:
I noticed the sidkit metal does leave slight marks on your fingers (like reading a newspaper) I hope it doesn't contain lead!
It's my understanding that it does.

andy wrote:
A lot of negative things can be said about the Sidkit as well as other guns, but I don't see that happening.
I can make a start if you like? Wink
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BeastMaster
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So what you're saying Eagle is that sidkit definately contains lead? because andy is saying it doesn't, so I'm confused! Confused

If it does contain lead in the pewter is it safe to handle?
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Eagle
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BeastMaster wrote:
So what you're saying Eagle is that sidkit definately contains lead?

That's what I was told.

Quote:
If it does contain lead in the pewter is it safe to handle?

I wouldn't think limited exposure would do much harm (don't be licking it!) but probably best to wear gloves.

Smile
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hirohawa
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Sidkit does not contain lead. Where did you hear that it does?

Any raw pewter item will give off some dark residue when handled and this is also the case with teh CS&T Blaster according to Rich as well.

The solution is very simple apply a clear laquer over any raw part exposed. That's what i did on mine.

If you paint the Sidkit to be screen accurate the only exposed metal parts you are going to come in contact with are the buttplate and the charter arm revolver bits.
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andy
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like I said before the Tin in the pewter will leave a reisdue. If there is lead it will just make it dull grey.

Before we freak out about lead, realize our parents drove cars with lead in the gas and drank from pewter that was lead filled for many years. Of course the worse issues are and always have been children ingesting lead.
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Once-bitten
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I never recovered from all the lead paint I ingested as a child...though, it could explain alot... Wink
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oldzey
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 1:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once-bitten wrote:
I never recovered from all the lead paint I ingested as a child...though, it could explain alot... Wink


I hear ya. Brain damage was what we were after, chromosome damage was just the gravy. Laughing
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The Loyalizer
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 4:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anson James wrote:

I'd get a Coyle if I could afford it.

I wish Coyle sold kits as I vary rarely buy finished items - if I bought a Coyle blaster I'd probably end up stripping the paint and I'd do some clean up too.

For some reason the mag section doesn't seem to sit correctly in a lot of the Coyle copies I've seen.

Anson


I recently bought one of Rich's stunt blasters, which I asked him to send me in an unfinished state. What I got out of the box wasn't all that different than a PKD I kit. That is, the pistol was a solid resin casting with the area for the steyr maga hollowed out, the grips and butt plate unattached, and the two triggers and trigger guard unattached. The triggers and trigger guard were metal, and the steyr magazine is the same black plastic that is on my v.3 CS blaster.

All in all it wasn't a difficult piece to assemble, although getting the butt plate screwed on straight took some work, and I haven't wired up any LEDs in the mag, it was a fun kit to work on. Granted since its a stunt casting, it does have a few really rough spots, but nothing that wont clean up with some sandpaper and a file. It doesn't have any moving parts aside from the rear trigger which I managed to get a spring behind so you can pull it a bit, and the steyr mag wich comes off all too easily (Still debating whether or not to just screw that into the pistol from the bottom).

The end result is that with a bit of painting, some rub n buff, I have a really solid knock around piece that I can keep on my desk and not worry if someone handles it casually. The price was reasonable and affordable for it, enough that I'd consider buying another one when I get the urge to do another kit.

Just my 2 cents on it.
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MsGeek
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 12:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Loyalizer wrote:

I recently bought one of Rich's stunt blasters, which I asked him to send me in an unfinished state. What I got out of the box wasn't all that different than a PKD I kit. That is, the pistol was a solid resin casting with the area for the steyr maga hollowed out, the grips and butt plate unattached, and the two triggers and trigger guard unattached. The triggers and trigger guard were metal, and the steyr magazine is the same black plastic that is on my v.3 CS blaster.


How much was the price on this? Please pm me if it's not kosher to mention it on the board.
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racprops
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes we both use Pewter, my guys have 9 grades (or more) of pewter to use. I ask them to use the strongest and hardest metal possible.

And I am now clear coating the raw metal parts to keep the finish.

On refunds, big companies can give refunds, I am not big.

I have given refunds when someone gets a model: opens the box and does not like it, not two months later.

I once refunded a guy for a model he had owned for two months to find when I got it back it had been molded off of as it had rubber stuck in the cracks, and later he sold a bunch of them.

I offered to help resell your model with a slight discount, after all you had it for two months, It was a used model by this time, I made that offer even while you were trying to blackmail me for a refund.

I also suggested you resell it on ebay.

On my last all metal model everyone whom have resold MADE money, most resell for almost double the retail price, go figure.

Same with almost all my Star Trek and other models, break even or make money.

And I personally have not gotten many complaints, I have seem them on a couple of boards, from time to time and they are like the ones you fuss about, like weakness of the pistol frame to the grips breaking the from trigger. And they are often from people like you, once-bitten so I discount them.

I do get a lot of requests for features like more metal, and that first plastic/metal model was a testing run, to work out bugs with the metal casting fit and finish.

And I did get so involved with all these new details I did not see how heavy the gun was getting and how overloaded the grip was becoming.

I did came up with a fix, but the first one was a metal bulldog, inner grip frame and outer grip frame, which means only the Styer receiver was left not metal….

A couple of builds later I found that it was fairly strong with just the inner frame in metal, I then offered to upgrade any ones model, so far only once-bitten has asked for and was given a inner frame free of any change.

And yes I was not doing the Plastic/metal version until I have fixed that problem, which will now go into production again.

I only have a few of the old stunt models left, so email me.

I don't do kits.

Rich
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Last edited by racprops on Wed Oct 31, 2007 9:20 pm; edited 1 time in total
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racprops
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 8:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anson James wrote:


For some reason the mag section doesn't seem to sit correctly in a lot of the Coyle copies I've seen.

Anson


Can you tell me what is wrong?

Rich
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BeastMaster
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok, so from what I understand the clearcoat of varnish is appied and then the blueing/darkening of the metal?

The problem with a pewter kit is that any sanding or filing instantly turns the surface into shiney chrome metal. Anyone got any tips on making the metal's finish even all over?
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racprops
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I treat the metal and paint the black parts, and clear coat as a last thing.

Rich
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Once-bitten
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Beast,
What I did with the metal parts on my Sid-Kit to tone them down was to spray them Black, let the area dry and then remove the paint with acetone.
This had the effect of "staining" the metal while removing the "shiny-chrome" look and leaving a darker gun-metal in it's place.
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BeastMaster
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

interesting idea! I'll keep that one in mind, cheers Smile
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Anson James
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

racprops wrote:
Anson James wrote:


For some reason the mag section doesn't seem to sit correctly in a lot of the Coyle copies I've seen.

Anson


Can you tell me what is wrong?

Rich


On some of your blasters the back end of the magazine (next to the trigger) seems to sit out further than the front.

As far as Sids blasters containing Lead - that's just bollocks.
If you wanted to get casting pewter with lead in it you'd find it very difficult in Italy and Europe because it's illegal.

Anyone suggesting Sid's kits contain lead are probably just trying to damage his sales.

I don't think Sid has anything to worry about - his kits are very reasonably priced and excellent quality too.
He replaced I part that I damaged with my dremel completely free of charge including the postage which was €6.00.

That's customer service at it's best.

You can't go wrong with him plus his kits are COMPLETELY lead free.
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racprops
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well as they slip in and out it maybe it was not put full in.

Rich
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