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First kit blaster build...I can has help please?

 
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MsGeek
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Joined: 19 Jun 2007
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Location: Paranoia City, CA

PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 1:00 am    Post subject: First kit blaster build...I can has help please? Reply with quote

I am now the proud owner of a second-hand, unbuilt, Sci-Fi Models PKD-S snubbie. This is the version where they cast it in purple resin, don't ask me why they did that, because I have no idea.

Thing is, some of the parts are completely free of their flash, and some aren't. How do you tell what's flash and what's part?

Also, what kind of glue do you use on this? I have a Tube of Bondo from back when I did the Nerf mods. Yes, I will work on it outdoors.

All help welcomed. Thanks!
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hirohawa
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 2:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

use any type of CA glue (superglue). With the flash you have to just eye it and leave extra so you can do some fine trimming with an exacto blade and sandpaper
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superjedi
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Joined: 02 Apr 2007
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Location: Newport News, VA

PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 2:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pics are helpful in figuring out which parts should be trimmed/sanded, and which can be left alone.
You could search for Snubbie threads on the forum and study pics people have posted, and compare them to the pieces you're working on.

Another tip is to spray the parts with a good primer. It'll really help to bring out any imperfections in the parts. Tamiya makes a great primer, and Duplicolor automotive primer is nice as well.

Most resins sand much easier than "normal" model kit styrene plastic. So go easy when sanding.
Remember, it's easy to take it off. . . but a lot harder to put back on! Smile
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Noeland
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Joined: 24 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have an unbuilt scifi snubby. I'd forgotten about it, I've had the thing for a few years now. I should build that thing finally!!

I like to use JB Quick on resin. It's a two part bonding agent that sets in about 5 minutes, dries very hard (if the mix is right) and is very sandable once cured.

JB Weld I use for bigger project that can sit. It takes several hours to set.

There are also good resin epoxies, and good old super glue works good for metals.
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MsGeek
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Location: Paranoia City, CA

PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took a few pictures of the parts. Maybe this will help y'all figure out what's flash and what's actually the parts.

I will be documenting progress on this piece here...this is where the pics live now:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/msgeek/sets/72157603465863609/

If any of you seasoned pros can help me make heads or tails out of this kit I would be super-grateful.
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Noeland
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll do some dotted line revisions of your photos to let you know what can be gotten rid of.


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Mr_Creepy
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hope this helps a little...from what I've seen, the BR gun doesn't have much in the way of areas that are thin like flashing, so just take your time trimming, and you should be OK


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Noeland
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think when she says "flash" she means anything that can be chopped off too.

The "magazine" housing for instance, has those blocks on the ends that can be removed.
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MsGeek
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you, guys, for giving me some starting places.

Take care,
Michelle
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andy
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can see the extra that needs to be cut off of it now that you mention it. It was a clean casting but it did have extra material added to help with the casting. I will see if I can post some pictures of what the parts should look like without the added material.
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Masao
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Joined: 18 Jun 2007
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wash all parts with dishsoap and water before beginning.

Be careful about cutting off to much. In the full sized blaster: The ammo well would include the curved area at the back of the part. Cut off only the 'vertical sticks' on the back.


Don't fill the lines which define the frame

Just fill the holes. Scratch the insides of these bubbles before attempting to fill them. A smooth surface will resist most types of glue including CA.

When trimming the barrel; carefully sand on a disk sander (if you have one or) use sandpaper glued to a board to create a flat surface.

The grips are best sanded this way. It takes a little skill to sand a part like the grips on a belt sander, which is the best way. If you do not have this tool or skill; the 'sandpaper on a board' method is the next best.

Start with heavy grits 60-80 and working your way down. Wet-sanding at a grit of about 800 should give you a nice surface. You can use finer grits if you prefer. Wet-sanding is literally using water and emory cloth or sandpaper.
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