FAQ Search Memberlist Usergroups Profile Log in to check your private messages
 Forum Index      Log in  Register
Amber Grips - Wet Sanding

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic     Forum Index -> Blade Runner Blaster Information and Discussion
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
AaronD82
Community Member


Joined: 05 Jan 2010
Posts: 93
Location: Bournemouth, England

PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 4:34 am    Post subject: Amber Grips - Wet Sanding Reply with quote

Hi All

Happy new year to everyone!

I'm hoping for some advice - I'm finally starting work on my Dad's Bladerunner blaster, and I have everything ready to go.

The only thing I'm not 100% comfortable with, is treating the amber grips.

I keep seeing people refer to wet sanding, and buffing, but was hoping someone would be able to chime in and be a little more specific.

--

Do I use wet & dry sand paper all over the grips whilst underwater, then buff?

Do I buff with a polish? if so, any particular type? (I'm uk based, so products may differ)

--

I don't want to sand the grips and deface them, so if anyone can help me with this, I would really appreciate it Smile

Cheers
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Author Message
racprops
Community Member


Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 2450
Location: Phoenix AZ

PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Who's grips are you working on??

And why are you thinking of sanding them??

To fit them to the grip frames or are they in poor shape?

The clear plastics can be problems, I do everything to avoild sanding my grips, I fix the frames and butt plate to fit them.

If they fit OK the try a little paint/metal polish and a soft rag to clean them up a little, unless you have done buffing on a buffer, it can be dangious to do.

And in most cases IF you sand then you will need to buff them out....

My 2 cents worth.

Rich
_________________
I never have enough time to do all I want to do!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Author Message
AaronD82
Community Member


Joined: 05 Jan 2010
Posts: 93
Location: Bournemouth, England

PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Rich

Sorry if I wasn't clear, I'm referring to the treatment people give them to make them more translucent.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Author Message
racprops
Community Member


Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 2450
Location: Phoenix AZ

PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try Mother's Mag Polish, Phase Pistol found that it really cleans them up.

Rich
_________________
I never have enough time to do all I want to do!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Author Message
phase pistol
Community Member


Joined: 04 Nov 2006
Posts: 1147

PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

it's true, I used Mother's Mag (an automobile polish for aluminum) and a microfiber cloth, and rubbed the inside surface of the grips... turned them from cloudy to water-clear! An amazing transformation.

Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Author Message
racprops
Community Member


Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 2450
Location: Phoenix AZ

PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2012 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the polish removes the mold releise from the cast parts...I have found I can also buff my grips and get a great finish...

Rich
_________________
I never have enough time to do all I want to do!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Author Message
amfx74
Community Member


Joined: 24 Apr 2011
Posts: 138
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 3:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi AaronD82,

I can't find any good polishes her in australia so I use Brasso metal polish and it works well as long as you don't get it in the checkered groves as it is hard to clean out. Works well with a rag. I also use a wool buffing attachment in my drill to buff.

your other question about wet sanding. I use wet and dry paper (black coloured paper). Starting with P400 then P800 and finally P1200. To use it I tear a piece off and fold it over to give myself more grip, then dip it in some water and carefully sand the surface. Then polish with the Brasso. If you need more of a shine, a light coat with a clear coat will add extra shine, but watch out with that as it could chip and look awful.

Hope that helps
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Author Message
AaronD82
Community Member


Joined: 05 Jan 2010
Posts: 93
Location: Bournemouth, England

PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 4:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you amfx74 - that's the sort of step by step description I was after!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Author Message
kurtyboy
Community Member


Joined: 01 Jan 2009
Posts: 319

PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Getting in in the checkered grooves might be a good thing if you're going for screen accurate.

amfx74 wrote:
Hi AaronD82,

I can't find any good polishes her in australia so I use Brasso metal polish and it works well as long as you don't get it in the checkered groves as it is hard to clean out. Works well with a rag. I also use a wool buffing attachment in my drill to buff.

your other question about wet sanding. I use wet and dry paper (black coloured paper). Starting with P400 then P800 and finally P1200. To use it I tear a piece off and fold it over to give myself more grip, then dip it in some water and carefully sand the surface. Then polish with the Brasso. If you need more of a shine, a light coat with a clear coat will add extra shine, but watch out with that as it could chip and look awful.

Hope that helps
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Author Message
ocd
Community Member


Joined: 24 Nov 2010
Posts: 115
Location: Royal Oak MI

PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just my "2 cents"

I replaced my Offworld grips with some from a BAD re-CAST of a RickRoss 1rst version PKD as they were the only really usable part.

And I HAD to wet sand them. Otherwise I would NOT recommend it.

So what did I do, you ask.

I used testers really fine 1 and 3 micron sanding paper for plastic models.
(It comes in a pack with all grades of sanding paper you need for this project).

Start with the course and work your way to fine.
DO NOT SAND THE CHECKERING arias. JUST the smooth arias

To wet sand go to a sink, turn on the water and get the paper wet AND the grip. Hold you grip under the water and sand. As long as the grip is wet you do not need to keep it in the running water.
Sand in ONE direction ONLY. ie back and forth NOT circular.

Sand for 3-5 minutes tops for each successively fine sand paper until your grips FEEL smooth. Use you fingers to feel this.

The grips will look progressively clearer as you go WHEN they are wet.

Once you dry them they will be smooth BUT NOT crystal clear.

To make them crystal clear, you will need to seal them with Testers CLEAR ACRYLIC Gloss BRUSH on. NOT the spray rattle cans.

IF you use the spray rattle can, for some reason it will never dry completely and it will get tacky after you handle it for a few minutes.

You should use a new wide brush to apply.
Follow the directions on the bottle.

I did not use any polish just elbow grease.

Here is an example. One is an Offworld and one (bottom blaster)is an Offworld with the RR Grips.


http://propsummit.com/upload/949/img_0290.jpg

Hope this helps and is not "too much info".

Best of luck!
_________________
"No choice pal,..."

"Questions?,..."
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Author Message
andy
Community Guide


Joined: 01 Nov 2006
Posts: 6237
Location: Rochester, NY

PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would like to add that wet sanding the clear grips would only be recommended if there a texture or irregularity to the grips more than just a cloudy matte finish, otherwise you are creating more work that will still need to be polished later. Another technique to fill in small scratches and such is to use Future floor wax or another equivalent acrylic floor polish.

Andy
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Author Message
phase pistol
Community Member


Joined: 04 Nov 2006
Posts: 1147

PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually on mine I just sanded the inner surface of the grips, the side that goes up against the metal grip frame. For buffing the outside I just rubbed it with the microfiber cloth. Worked great.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Author Message
amfx74
Community Member


Joined: 24 Apr 2011
Posts: 138
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kurtyboy wrote:
Getting in in the checkered grooves might be a good thing if you're going for screen accurate.


Hi Kurtyboy, what do you mean more screen accurate. Polishing the grooves or leaving the polish residue?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Author Message
joberg
Community Member


Joined: 06 Oct 2008
Posts: 9447

PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Leaving the polish residue Wink
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Author Message
amfx74
Community Member


Joined: 24 Apr 2011
Posts: 138
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took another look at the Worldcon photos and the residue is almost exactly what the Brasso looks like. Got some on my snubby handle.

So there you go. For anyone wanting the residue look, get some Brasso. I also use it to polish the scratches from my Swatch face.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Author Message
kurtyboy
Community Member


Joined: 01 Jan 2009
Posts: 319

PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How do you know it was made in Poland? Laughing

joberg wrote:
Leaving the polish residue Wink
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Author Message
joberg
Community Member


Joined: 06 Oct 2008
Posts: 9447

PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whadaya mean it's made in Poo' Land?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic     Forum Index -> Blade Runner Blaster Information and Discussion All times are GMT - 5 Hours
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2002 phpBB Group
BBTech Template by © 2003-04 MDesign

Problems Registering Contact: help@propsummit.com