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drmcoy
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Joined: 13 Apr 2008
Posts: 64

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2008 9:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was not able to replicate the "rust" effect others may have been able to get with the Blacken It...this isn't to say it isn't possible, but all I noticed with the Blacken It is that it maybe made the finish a bit darker in spots. If you don't mind gambling $15 or so on the stuff, it's nice to have to play with...I guess if you spend upwards of $400 for a kit, what;s another $15 or $20 to ensure you get the finish you want, eh?
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BeastMaster
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Joined: 19 Jul 2007
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Location: UK

PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 4:35 pm    Post subject: Re: FINISH Reply with quote

drmcoy wrote:


When I was all done, I put some gun oil (also from WalMart) on a rag and wiped over all exposed metal surfaces (not the black parts) to protect it and give it a little sheen.



I've read someone else also used gun oil to finish off the exposed metal parts. Though wouldn't it make the surface a little greasy or something? being oil. or do you apply a very thin amount? Would you recomend getting some of this and if so any particular brand?
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SCOFFMAN
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Joined: 23 Mar 2008
Posts: 126
Location: Spokane, WA

PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That was probably me - I darkened the metal on my SidKit using plain old ferric chloride I got from Radio Shack for like $4-5 for a 16 oz bottle. (I use it mainly to etch copper and brass.) It gives a finish very similar to the Perma Blue and Blacken-It I've seen pics on here of... I then used a light coating of gun oil on it... it doesn't really leave it greasy, because you just use a little and wipe away the excess which leaves a real thin coating on it, giving it a slightly less dull (but not overly shiny) appearance. You can find my pics and all my info on the finish I did on my build here in this thread (it's the second to last post):

http://propsummit.com/viewtopic.php?t=158&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=60

Alas, the cheap ferric chloride etchant solution is no longer available from Rad Shack and the cheapest I've seen it on the Internet now is about $10 plus shipping... you may be able to buy it still from speciality electronic supply shops in most areas... otherwise it sounds like you might as well use the perma blue or Blacken-It for the same kind of money now.

As to the gun oil I used, I don't remember the name of it and I couldn't find my tube of it... if I come across it, I'll post it up... but I would think any good quality gun oil would work fine. Other nice thing about it, it SMELLS like a real gun too and it really does help nicely with the moving parts....
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drmcoy
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Joined: 13 Apr 2008
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe the gun oil I picked up was from Wal-Mart -- small bottle, about 3 or 4 bucks. As stated, you put a little bit on a soft cloth and rub over gun and then wipe off any excess...it leaves a slight sheen and makes prop smell more like a real gun.
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SCOFFMAN
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Location: Spokane, WA

PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Found it - it's called The Reel Gun Oil... designed for guns, fishing reels and other outdoor sporting gear... it's a high quality synthetic lubricant, and it does smell a lot like other gun oils I've used in the past, although it doesn't seem to gum up or attract dust and other contaminants as much.
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clutch
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Joined: 12 Dec 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

An easy way to simulate rust is to flick raw sienna paint at the piece with a toothbrush.
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Noeland
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Joined: 24 Oct 2006
Posts: 1328

PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beastmaster, generally gun oil once rubbed onto metal is not greasy. It's a light oil, and if you get it on your fingers or something, it's nota big deal.


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