(another) Racprops Blaster build log

[erv]

Hi !

I finally have time to work on my blaster. I'm progressing slowly, I've been at it for about 2 days now, most of the cleaning of the parts is done, I though I would post a build log here.

and also because I have a few questions

My goal with that one is to (try to) make a version with lights & sounds while keeping the bold mechanism and working cylinder. It's a bit crazy, I know.








I've also assembled some of the cylinder mechanism, most holes are tapped now, only waiting for some missing parts in my kit (rich is taking care of that thank you again !)

QUESTIONS !

I've started sanding and sanding
My issue is that my casts have in certain places deep grooves and I'm worried about finally loosing some of the marking by insisting too much.

I've already fixed a BIG hole in the upper receiver (melting some pewter piece with a torch, then cleaning, very scary) - see the 2 pics above
but now,
what should I do ?
what do you guys do on your kits ? Sand it down fully ?

thanks !



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[Staar]

Personally, I think that's a very poor quality cast and definitely not one to be happy with. I'm sure Rich would agree.

I suggest you drop him a line because he's very accommodating in swapping out parts that somehow missed his quality control table.

Best of luck

Regards

MARK
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[erv]

pretty much all my set / kit is like that in terms of finish

[cratercritter]

Yeah Erv... I agree with Mark's comment. The main part being the steyr receiver should look better than that. You may get away with some of the other parts being poorly cast as they have mostly concealed surfaces, but the steyr and bolt assembly parts are exposed and need to look their best. Rich will assist you I reckon.

[joberg]

Erv, eager to see your build and the WIP+the tuto...as the other said, some piece can be so-so in terms of casting, but the outside parts should be clean and crisp

[erv]

Both bolt, receiver and bulldog body are bubbled. The body I've already started working on it and I think I can save it.
The grip frames need some work too but that's also something not too visible.

thanks !

[DonParker]

Hi Erv , I have 2 of these kits and there was some work
that needed to be done on the finishes of both of them
(I'm still working on one as we speak.). Some of the
spots that needed the most work I used solder and a soldering
iron and just built up the divot to above the surface. Then I
used a file to work it down . After it was close to the original
surrounding surface I sand it the rest of the way with finer
sand paper.
I also use solder to build up around the end of the receiver
and file it so the bolt cap sits correctly. I don't like seeing a 1/8
inch gap between the bolt cap and the receiver like
I've seen on some other builds.
Another thing is avoid the lettering when you sand it especially
the small Steyr logo towards the front of the receiver.The other
letters are heavier so you can sand more on them but stay away
from the logo.
Hang in there and I'm certain you can get it smooth , I did, and
if I can do it anyone can.

Don

[racprops]

They are right and I have mailed him a new receiver and the new bolt.

Even before seeing this thread...

Now that I do I am glad I did, as that is a poor copy of the receiver.

Along with the other parts he asked for.

So stop banging your head on that receiver and wait for the replacement.

Rich
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I never have enough time to do all I want to do!

[Staar]

[erv]

the good words from the best guy. Thank you rich !
Do you need any of the parts I have ? I believe I have a spare set of grips (ext + int) in my parcel, but I think that is what you offered to see if powder coating would work with pewter (I'll try soon).

[racprops]

Keep them and see what happens.

I believe the temp used in Power coating is too high for pewter.

Pewter starts to melt at 400 degrees F.

Rich
_________________
I never have enough time to do all I want to do!

[erv]

you're probably right, I'll give it a try knowing that PC is usually curing at that temp or close.
thanks again !

[racprops]

As for sound effects I have tried what I feel is both ways: in the ammo clip/housing and in the pistol body.

I found dropping the cylinder and using the space is the best.

This is what I did with my first pewter models.

You can mount a switch just inside the real part of the chamber and have the trigger work it.

Also you have room for a larger speaker which with gun should help. I also mounted the sound board in there as well.

I also used the front trigger as a on and off switch, although now I would skip that and use the one it the clip.

I also did (and will do) a two-step sound system, when turned on I had a sound chip say “Weapon Armed” and when fired the gun shot sound from the film.

These early models also had two color LEDs in the clip that would blink green-red-green-and then hold on red as a preflight/fight check out. What a nightmare was wring those up were.

Rich
_________________
I never have enough time to do all I want to do!