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colinfair
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice one

thanks oz

colin Very Happy
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DaveG
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A note for anyone thinking of leaving their blaster the natural zinc finish... zinc tarnishes with exposure to oxygen, developing a dull grey appearance. You can mitigate this somewhat with a application of automotive paste wax.Ever better, a product called Renaissance Wax developed for museum preservation.
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Ozwepaie
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Joined: 06 Feb 2013
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Location: Trooper, PA.

PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2013 11:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaveG wrote:
A note for anyone thinking of leaving their blaster the natural zinc finish... zinc tarnishes with exposure to oxygen, developing a dull grey appearance. You can mitigate this somewhat with a application of automotive paste wax.Ever better, a product called Renaissance Wax developed for museum preservation.


Great advice! I don't plan to keep this raw. I'm thinking more of a
Lamborghini lime green? LoL

not sure when I get around to finishing it? @ the moment, I'm wrapping
up an anti-rattle bushing kit. This will seat the bolt & cylinder door nice &
snug. W/out interfering w/ the functionality. Thing makes way too much
noise for my taste. W/ my kit (mainly machined delrin & O-rings) I can
violently shake it, & not a sound. Very Happy
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joberg
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2013 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TFS DaveG. Great to know that there's a product out there that'll take care of that problem
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eltee
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Joined: 31 Oct 2006
Posts: 437
Location: West Coast USA

PostPosted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't tell by the pics, but did you use a .44 magnum round originally instead of a .44 special round? The Bulldog uses .44 special which is smaller than the magnum counterpart.


colinfair wrote:
hi all

some pics of what i did.

the first is reference to the difference in size of the rounds, and the work on the cylinder.

[img]

you can see the white plastic card added to replace the metal disc you won't see this when fitted to the blaster and the cut lines are very thin you can barely see them.


[/img]

colin Smile
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VFX Freak
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Joined: 31 Mar 2013
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Location: Los Angeles

PostPosted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been out of town working and my Blaster kit is waiting for me at home. After seeing all the build tips here I can't wait to get started... in a few months Crying or Very sad In the meantime I remember Adam Savage saying he stripped the bluing from his Steyr receiver with white vinegar, and that it looked just like the aged prop when finished. That might work to strip the bluing from the zinc as well. I also read a good tip about using 0000 steel wool to apply the bluing liquid. I did an entire Remington shotgun receiver this way and it worked well.
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colinfair
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi eltee

sorry haven't lodged in in a few days.

that's interesting i never checked that, did it only use the short .44's ?

i might swap the supplied ones back they add some nice weight ,but the longer 44's look better its what ever floats your boat i suppose.

Colin Very Happy
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BeastMaster
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Joined: 19 Jul 2007
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Location: UK

PostPosted: Sun Jul 21, 2013 5:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys, back to this thread again some questions about the aluminium black dilute dipping technique: After dipping do you need to imediately rinse off the solution to prevent the part getting darker? Also seeing as the chemical used is pretty harmful cancer stuff what would be the proper way disposing it? I'm a bit of an environmentalist and would feel too guilty just pouring it down the drain :S any thoughts?
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cratercritter
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 21, 2013 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just dump it down the drain. Twisted Evil
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joberg
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 25, 2013 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't pour it down the drain: pollution at its best Shocked
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Bucky Cat
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Location: Los Angeles

PostPosted: Thu Jul 25, 2013 6:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As for disposing of it, I've got a batch in the garage and I'm wondering the same thing.

As to washing it off, I rinsed each piece as soon as I pulled it out of the chemical bath. I do believe it slows / stops the chemical reaction. Not positive but that's how I did it.

Also, I found that polishing it before I started and again after each treatment really helped me get a nice finish.

And DaveG's tip about the Renaissance wax was brilliant. That stuff is wonderful. I bought a very small bottle and have hardly used any but did the entire blaster. It does show finger prints however. I'm really looking forward to getting one of Dave's stands when they become available again. But who among us doesn't pick the blaster up once in a while?

Ted.
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Ozwepaie
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Joined: 06 Feb 2013
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Location: Trooper, PA.

PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 7:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For more detail look here:
http://www.propsummit.com/viewtopic.php?t=4172

This is NOT a quick & easy process. But well worth the effort.
According to the dude @ my local gun store. Zinc needs to be chemically
burnt. Before it will turn blue. If some of you have got a rainbow or
spectrum, type of effect? You're using the correct method. You just didn't
"burn" it yet.

Do not water down the solution.
Do not let the solution in the bottle contact any dirty or used applicator.
Shake the bottle every 20min or so.
You do not have to complete the bluing process in one shot.

If you have specific questions? Please post here.
I'll try and stay on top of this thread as best I can.



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hirohawa
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks great!
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Bucky Cat
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm getting a lot of mileage out of this picture today. Laughing

Here is my recently finished Tomenosuke kit. One of the things I've really enjoyed with these kits is seeing the different levels of finish people are doing. I liked the very slightly weathered look myself.

I went with the Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black. LOTS of polishing before I started the process and LOTS of polishing during and afterwards. But I really like the finish. Just wish I had a decent camera. All my money goes to props.

Also added a steel barrel from DaveG (Sorry Tomenosuke but it makes all the difference), photos from Kurtboy and will be looking to adding new amber grips from Proper in the future.

Ted.


[url]<a><img></a>[/url]
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clutch
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks great!
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spinner 44
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Joined: 06 Nov 2006
Posts: 202
Location: Madrid, Spain

PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BeastMaster wrote:
Cool! Thanks for sharing jakob. Does the black polish up shiney like the gun blue? I want to go for a slightly lighter and more polished up finish like this:



Who made this version? This is the look and feel I want to give to mine!
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Ozwepaie
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Location: Trooper, PA.

PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 1:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think that is the World-Con pro?? Not the kit.
I could be wrong, but it's a dead ringer for the Pro.
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VFX Freak
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 27, 2013 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm... Not much activity here lately. Perhaps there's a better place to post this? I finally finished my Tomenosuke Pro kit (for now. I plan to weather it eventually.) I'm really happy with the results. Have a look. Thanks DaveG for the great barrel and stand.




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cratercritter
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Joined: 15 Jul 2009
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked Well done VFX.
Looks really professional...bluing looks great.
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joberg
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 28, 2013 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beauty for sure, very crisp: love it Cool
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