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heddon



Joined: 02 Feb 2008
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 9:17 pm    Post subject: Help the Newbe Reply with quote

I'm tackling a Sid Kit for the first time. As far as paint goes, are you guys using laquers, enamels or acrylic enamels? I've done plenty of painting on regular steels over the years but this is my first time painting pewter and I want to get the smoothest, most durable finish I can. I understand pewter can be a little troublesome as far as paint adhesion goes too.
My understanding is gun bluing won't necessarily give too good a finish, if any, on pewter.

While I'm at it, I have to say how amazed I am at the popularity one single prop can have! The photos I have seen here of the builds are unbelievable! And the guys who have built using actual gun parts and fabricated the rest.......WOW!!!
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svander
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Joined: 31 Dec 2007
Posts: 178
Location: Seattle. WA

PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 2:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome.

If you can search for posts by IGNITERS. He has a beautiful sidkit which looks jawdroppingly like the hero prop. He also detailed his method somewhere on the site.
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KarlBud420
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Joined: 19 Apr 2006
Posts: 125
Location: Ashburn, VA

PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome Heddon!

You can see a few SidKits that the members of the board made for a contest last year here:

http://propsummit.com/viewtopic.php?t=310&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=20

From personal experience, I can definitely say that gun blue will adhere to a SidKit, but if you rub it with steel wool and any sort of hard friction, it will come off easily. Mine was done with Birchwood-Casey gun blue readily available at Wal-Mart. You are correct about the paint adhesion though. The grey auto primer I used seemed to stick ok, but when I put the black Rustoeleum enamel rattlecan on it, I had to seal it with glosscote to give it modest durability.

Hope this gets the conversation started.

Bruce
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heddon



Joined: 02 Feb 2008
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 1:58 pm    Post subject: Newbe Reply with quote

Thank you both.
Yes, IGNITERS was one that made my eyes pop a bit! There are definitely some interesting ideas going on here. I tried a little experiment with the Steyr barrel using good old Duplicolor spray primer in both gray and then again in black. The black gives a nice effect if you hit it lightly with a Scotch Brite pad or steel wool. Kind of a worn look but not too worn. I would have painted over the gray with regular matte black later but I don't want to lay on too many coats so I can keep the engraving clear and clean. The black primer would do well alone with a clearcoat afterward.

The odd thing I ran into with both colors was a problem area on the right side of the barrel. The paint seemed to separate in little poc mark spots for about 1 inch, nowhere else. In both cases I stripped it off (thank you Acetone) hit it with the steel wool and wiped it off with alcohol only to get the same result again! I'm wondering if the lead or tin content might be high in that small area; strange.

Anyway, I'm going to give the Birchwood Casey a shot. I know it used to come in a couple of different varieties years ago when I built black powder guns. Some promised a darker, richer look. They even made some stuff called Gun Browning at that time to give them a real old apperance. That and dig out the airbrush and try the Testors Metalizer paints if I can find them locally.

Thanks again!
Also Bruce
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IGNITERS
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Joined: 14 Feb 2007
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Location: EDMONTON

PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 2:16 pm    Post subject: MY SIDKIT... Reply with quote

Thank you for the kind words ...I dont remember what kind of blueing I used ( it may say on one of my posts) but heating up the metal a bit (not too hot) does help it to sink in for a deeper finish and the miracle is ...are you ready ? ...BLACK SHOE POLISH!...put this on after the blueing has been left to sit for at least a day ...yes it helps seal the finish and take that oxidised dusty look off .Try this before you do something as crazy as painting a metal part to get it to look more metal!....if this doesn't get it dark enough try repeating the bluing process...hope this helps!
Also I went to the gun shop and picked up real 44 shells (I thing 44...) and hammered the tips on carefully so the ammo looks great as well !...yes and I filled the screw hole and use a strong magnet to hold the battery cover on ....anyway ....GOOD LUCK!
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hirohawa
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Joined: 18 May 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For painted parts you can also use a self etching primer, available at most autozone type stores, that will adhere better than a regular primer.
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heddon



Joined: 02 Feb 2008
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 6:10 pm    Post subject: Help the Newbe Reply with quote

And again, thank you very much.
I'd thought about heating the metal or the bluing but got a bit nervous due to the low melting point of pewter. Not that I would heat it that much but I got concerned over the idea of possible distortion. The black primer
rubbed out with 0000 steel wool is giving a nice effect but I think Im going to give the bluing a shot , at least on the Steyr barrel. I had tried the cold bluing on one of the pieces, but after several applications, the best I could get was a dark gray. Not quite quite what I had hoped for. The idea of black shoe polish is pretty cool, who would've thought!
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bsgfan12
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Joined: 15 Jul 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I have a kit also and have never painted anything.
What would be the steps? Would it be something like this:
Rub it down with steel wool?
Black auto primer
black auto paint
clearcoat Is there a can called "clear coat"?
Are these all in spraycans at auto supply places?
Could I mess this up really?
Thanks
________
[URL=http://www.ford-wiki.com/wiki/Ford_Falcon_(North_America)]Ford falcon (north america) history[/URL]


Last edited by bsgfan12 on Mon Feb 14, 2011 9:36 pm; edited 1 time in total
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IGNITERS
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Joined: 14 Feb 2007
Posts: 251
Location: EDMONTON

PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 2:59 pm    Post subject: mess... Reply with quote

really the fastest way to mess something up or to stray from the desired result is to rush and paint before you fit all the pieces .Test assemble your kit before you start glueing and screwing and make sure once it goes together thats how you want it to stay.
There were a couple things that I changed after final assembly and as expected I scratched some paint and stuff like that ....
So with the SIDKIT ....I lookd at all the worldcon photos and made a list of things I wanted to do ,screws to change ,where I would hide the battery, the light on the cover instead of the screw....all that take your time ,hope that helps
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heddon



Joined: 02 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 5:35 pm    Post subject: Help the Newbe Reply with quote

I took IGNITERS advice and went with the gun bluing and black shoe polish and believe me, I'll take this over the paint finish any day.
I used Birchwood Casey Super Blue and good old KIWI shoe polish for the parts I want dark and regular bluing for those that I want a bit lighter.
I guess you could just buff it with 0000 steel wool a little more for a lighter tone also. Deciding how aged I want the finished product to appear is the final problem but it's a lot easier to experiment this way than with paint and won't cost anywhere near as much. I'm definitely test fitting as I go along too.
I'm also using actual dummy bullets as opposed to the pewter ones that Siderio includes. This sucker is going to weigh enough as it is!! I know it's been brought up on other posts but maybe the next version he comes up with (if any) will address the handle length which everyone, including me, seems to thinks is a bit short. Then again if you don't have large hands it won't matter much.
Anyway, thanks again to IGNITERS for a great trick!!
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IGNITERS
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 6:18 pm    Post subject: oK... Reply with quote

Glad to help out ! ( I learned the trick from a metal sculptor I lived with ...she used it on her finished pieces to avoid rust )
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